| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Rust removal, short term storage, paintting and lubricating |
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| andyf:
Thanks, Dave; I didn't know that. No reason not to use a solution of blasting soda to neutralise the acid. Probably comes much cheaper than in little containers from food shops. Andy |
| vtsteam:
For my own equipment's relatively minor surface rust in spots I wouldn't want to blast it. Too much equipment and setup, and the need to disassemble and clean up the area afterwards. For a larger project or tool renovation, of course it would make sense. I'm still open to other tips and suggestions, personally -- keep them coming! I worked on a small patch on the mill ways yesterday with a scraper using very light pressure. Light powder surface rust tends to stand up slightly proud of the surface, so this just leveled it, and pretty much made it disappear. I hit the spot with light oil and wiped it nearly dry with a paper towel. There was just a slight surface discoloration. Using a scraper had more appeal than an abrasive like sandpaper, which abrades both the good metal around the rust and the rust itself. The scraper just rides on the good metal and removes anything above that. That is with very light pressure. I didn't want to create a concavity with abrasives. I guess abrasives would be okay for non-critical surfaces. But I think a scraper might make sense on machined surfaces. By the way I mean a sharp machinist scraper, held as for hand scraping, not a paint scraper. Applied with almost no force -- just the weight of the tool itself |
| PekkaNF:
Soda blasting should allow part to cleaned without disassembly - that't what I have been reading and told. But I don't know for sure. I tried firs normal can-type sand blasting gun and baking soda. You can get baking soda in industrial kitchen pagages, but wife bought me two one kilo jars. That was enough to try and clean about half a litre of small parts. There was soda dust everywhere! Lucily I did it outside. Nice thing is that baking soda is much nicer on clothes, teeth and cellphones than blasting sand....but I still wear respirator and glasses. See pictures. That is not a proper soda blasting gun, but I wanted just to try it out. Worked somehow, but spew out soda like there were no tomorrow. I bought proper soda blasting gun. And a can of soda, but haven't tried it yet. I heard that it is even more critical about moisture removal from pressurized air than sand blasting. Borrowed a pretty good one, but it needs some work. The can type: http://nordblasthome.com/en/ Pekka |
| Pete W.:
Hi there, all, Someone told me, many years ago, that 'an inch of steel makes thirteen inches of rust'. Maybe some of the modders reading this thread can verify or refute this? Any chemists or metallurgists here? Now for the heresy! If the above is true, then it could be said that rust looks worse than it is. I don't mean that it's OK to neglect a machine and let it get rusty, rather that a machine that looks far gone can be brought back to a useful level of functionality. I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned electrolytic rust removal. There was quite an extensive thread on the subject on another forum a few months ago. |
| clivel:
I have been very impressed with Evapo-Rust A while back I was given a pile of rusty castings for a pair of Stuarts, a 10V and 10H, they looked absolutely horrible: And here is the boxbed after a couple hours in Evapo-Rust then a rinse in hot water. It looked like a brand new casting. Evapo-Rust is easily available in Canada http://www.evaporust.ca/ a web search indicated that it can also be obtained in many other countries. Clive |
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