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| Rust removal, short term storage, paintting and lubricating |
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| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on February 26, 2013, 04:07:51 PM --- --- Quote from: PekkaNF on February 26, 2013, 02:55:58 PM ---Now I only have to figure out what do with this vice. Swiss cheese does not look appropriate here. Pekka --- End quote --- Well you could fill the craters in with pot metal, solder, braze, or an epoxy like JB Weld. Or you could mill the whole top down say 3mm and laminate a 4mm piece of steel back in place using a suitable epoxy. Then mill the top surface true and to proper thickness. --- End quote --- I don't think I want to reduce thickness of the top - it is in tensile load and I believe that is not very ideal for cast iron to start with. My first instict was cast iron stick welding....but the heat is an issue and generally I don't have too good understanding on cast iron welding. Filling epoxy could be the way to go, it really does not fix anything, but should make it easier to clean. Pity it was drilled...It probably was put into pilar dril, because the base did not have keys/screws in it...have to find repalcement for them - imperial standard I think. One grinding wheel holder was so badly gunked up it didn't come apart, bit oil, bit soakking, bit soft hammer, but to remove all grud took so long time that bluing was gone. That one too needs some attention. Pekka |
| vtsteam:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on February 26, 2013, 02:55:58 PM ---One grinding wheel holder was so badly gunked up it didn't come apart, bit oil, bit soakking, bit soft hammer, but to remove all grud took so long time that bluing was gone. That one too needs some attention. --- End quote --- Old tractors sitting unused in fields, seized, can usually be restored if you are patient and use kerosene (paraffin) to let the parts soak. Just about anything can be loosened up if left in a jar of kerosene for a period of time. Maybe it will take a month, but it will come loose. Rust seized pistons are loosened this way -- kerosene is poured into the cylinder and kept full for a month, or more -- when it begins to leak down through the rings you can knock the piston out through the bore using a piece of wood as a drift. |
| PekkaNF:
One item crossed on my list: Filled the drilled face with Plastic Padding Chemical metal. Grease removing, soda blasting, fill, file and ready. Considered filling it with auto body lead or some metal, but I'm trying this firs. Also tried soda blasting to a larger piece that was not disassembled....cleans really nice, but does not remove rust. Need a bigger compressor. Funny thing is that this expensive soda blasting can works whole lot better that sand blasting can on soda....there must be a small difference on the structure? It is also whole lot economical...very much less soda is blown, but it cleans better! PekkaNF |
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