| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Rust removal, short term storage, paintting and lubricating |
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| vtsteam:
I'm very interested in how people remove or deal with surface rusting in stored machines. Usually in use I haven't had a problem. But in storage for the last 5 years, many of my tools and machines now show rust. :palm: :palm: :( I'm most interested i rust removal tips an tricks at this point -- next time I store them I'll douse everything in chain saw oil if need be. I don't care about the mess, at least they won't be harmed. But I hope never to have to store things again once I build my shop. So rust removal and appropriate lubrication is the main interest at this point. ps. personally I have found WD-40 to be of little use for rust protection -- and I have never heard that it contains wax, nor noticed any long lasting residue when I've used it. The old Liquid Wrench did seem to do better, and from the grey color I guessed that it probably contained graphite. But LW has completely changed formulas a few years ago, diversified into 4 or 5 products, and I hate the new version's smell. Reminds me of PC Blaster. Anyway, this is about rust removal, not removing rusted bolts -- which is the stated purpose for the last mentioned products. So post on..... |
| Lew_Merrick_PE:
Pekka, Phosphoric acid (most commonly found in Naval Jelly) turns the surface of iron or steel gray-to-black (depending on the specific alloy and heat treatment). It is supposed to do that. |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: andyf on February 22, 2013, 04:44:03 PM ---Hi Pekka, As Lew suggested, one very safe way to neutralise acid is to use a solution of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or washing soda (sodium carbonate), which is cheaper if you need to mix up a buckeful and seems to dissolve more easily. Without getting into too much chemistry, either will combine with the acid residue and give off carbon dioxide while turning the acid into sodium phosphate or sodium citrate. Both are used as food additives. So are sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate and citric acid (think of citrus fruit like lemons). There's a tiny bit of phosphoric acid in Coca Cola. So, they are all safe, though I shouldn't like to drink phosphoric acid any stronger than in Coke. Even in Coke, it is said to attack your teeth. Andy --- End quote --- Thank you very much. This clears it up nicely. Sooo...if I need to soda blast part after rust removal with acid, blasting soda probably would neutralize rest of it nicely.....should there be any left after rinse and drying. --- Quote from: Pete W. on February 22, 2013, 06:18:31 PM ---Hi there, all, A good method I use to get rid of residual dampness is to apply alcohol (known as 'methylated spirits' in the UK). Water and alcohol mix, the posh name for the resultant mixture is 'azeotrope'. The point is that the azeotrope is volatile, it evaporates, thus getting rid of the water. If you try this, remember that alcohol is inflammable so there's a fire risk - do it out of doors and away from naked flames. I've used this method to dry a paint brush after using a water-based paint brush cleaner when I wanted to use the same brush for a different paint without waiting. I've also used the same procedure to get rid of residual fresh water after washing a flooded wristwatch movement to get rid of the sea water. --- End quote --- That is a very good info. Methylated spirits i.e. Denatured alcohol is very easy to find and I had bottle in hand. That seem to work very well on small parts. I wonder if I could use is for a rinse in ultrasonic cleaner, probably best to do it without heating up the tank. I'm pretty familiar with alcohol, I have some camping stoves...they are quiet, but needs preheating on very cold and if you get any Denatured alcohol on your food or fingers - taste is disgusting. Some people here complain that WD40 used to better before but lately it has been formulated to smell better and such. But it's still obtainable. Lew, thank you. I was wondering the color...sometimes it's almost like gun bluing - sometimes more like parkerized. Occasionally really nice color and wonder if I could produce it freshly turned/milled parts. Pekka |
| andyf:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on February 23, 2013, 05:48:32 PM ---Thank you very much. This clears it up nicely. Sooo...if I need to soda blast part after rust removal with acid, blasting soda probably would neutralize rest of it nicely.....should there be any left after rinse and drying. --- End quote --- I'm not sure what "blasting soda" is, Pekka, but it sounds dangerous! Baking soda or washing soda are what you want. The first can be found in food shops; it is added to cake ingredients to make the cake rise. Washing soda should be found in stores which sell cleaning materials, somewhere near the Persil, Ariel etc. Everything I mentioned is soluble in water, so rinsing and drying will remove any residue. Andy |
| DMIOM:
Andy, Sodablasting is just one of the spectrum : grit/sand blasting - bead blasting - soda blasting Using friable bicarb in a blastable form is even kinder than the other media Dave |
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