Cylinder Bore 7/8" at a depth of 2.5" OR use DOM/CRS ?

Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

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Jasonb:
Thats provided your roughed out bore is true to the outside of the liner!! You also need to ensure that your clamping pressure doe snot distort the liner, I assume its about 1/16" wall thickness

I'll mock up the way I did the liner on the engine in my avitar and take a few pics, that wa sdone with a between cts bar

J

John Stevenson:

--- Quote from: Jasonb on January 01, 2011, 11:26:17 AM ---Thats provided your roughed out bore is true to the outside of the liner!!

J

--- End quote ---

Sorry, missed that, I thought it was a cast cylinder, in which case make part of the bore taper out to the OD and register on the OD of the liner, then pack up and clamp.

Using the tapered bushes is standard operation on line boring machines and adjustable reamers with extension pieces on for line reaming.

John S.

Dean W:
Chris, you got another batch of good ideas for setting up to align bore that cylinder. I don't have anything
new to add. I hope you'll show us your progress!

Jasonb:
Here is the mock up of how I did the liner for the engine in my avitar.

First machine the liner OD and rough out the bore a littel undersize, you can come at it from both ends if your normal bars are not long enough.

Next take a block of wood or laminate up some MDF and bolt this firmly to your cross slide, the top of the wood needs to be on centre height or a fraction below so you may need to pack & shim it up. This block was used on a smaller lathe but I had two bolts in each slot.

Next screw a second block to the first, mark it so it goes back on the same way and put a bit of card between the two blocks.

Now bore a hole through the two blocks of wood, first with progressively larger drill bits in held in the 3 jaw and then switch to your between cts boring bar until you have a snug fit on the OD of the liner.

Its now just a case of loosening the top screws, removing the card and place the liner in the hole, screw back down and the liner will be held concentric to the lathes axis for boring with the between cts bar. DO NOT disturnb the bottom block.

J

raynerd:
What a fantastic idea - thanks a lot for the suggestion! I`ve no T-slots on my saddle so I`d have to come up with some way of bolting the wooden block down but that really is an excellent idea. So by boring the wooden block you are ensuring your cylinder will be held aligned!

Sorry if this is a stupid question but a few of you have mentioned "liners". As far as I can read into the plans, the cylinder doesn`t have a liner but is just bored straight out of a bar of cast iron. I presume it is exactly the same idea, I just wanted to clarify considering liners have been mentioned a few times.

Chris

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