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| Cylinder Bore 7/8" at a depth of 2.5" OR use DOM/CRS ? |
| (1/9) > >> |
| raynerd:
Hello, I was hoping someone could give me some advice. The next project that I am currently planning requires a cylinder bore of 7/8" to a depth of 2.5". I`m really concerned that to that depth I`m going to end up with a taper as I`m going to have to have my boring bar stuck right out! Infact, I`m fairly sure my boring bar won`t stick out that far! I`m also going to have to buy the cast iron material for the cylinder as it is something I don`t have in stock at that length so it is quite expensive if it goes wrong. Do you think this is do`able - should I give it a go. The reason I ask is becuase on another project log of the same engine build, someone has used DOM steel tubing (drawn over mandrel), I`d never heard of it but I believe in the UK we normally call it CDS seamless or mechanical tubing. So I`ve found it with an ID of 7/8" but sadly at a very larger length which boosts the price up to £30+ which I can`t justify when I only need 2.5". I believe in the USA a few sites offer to sell it by the inch but I just can`t find anyone that will do that over here. I believe this idea of using DOM for cylinder linings has been mentioned over on HMEM. So I`m a bit puzzled. Do you think I`m being soft shying away from cutting the bore? I just had the worry to start with and then when I saw someone else had thought the same thing and gone a different route to avoid it, it is now concerning me even more. Any advice apparecited, either where I can get DOM/CRS seamless by the inch from the UK or how to cut such a long bore?! Cheers Chris |
| sbwhart:
Chris Is the bore blind or straight through. The best way to deal with it would be to drill out as much as you can, then bore, but first make ureself a boring bar make it as thick as you can and just long enough to clear the job, at that size you can make the bar from mild steel with a little bit of HSS held in place with a grub screw, a broken centre drill would be ideal, when you come to the finish cut run the same cut through three or four times to get rid of the spring in the bar. Boring bar second from left is one I made. Hope this helps Stew |
| raynerd:
Thank you Stew, that was excellent. It is a through bore for a cylinder for a Webster IC engine. I would prefer to try and bore it so I`m glad you recommend that. As you suggested, I have both some broken center drills and also some little bits of HSS that I`ve accumulated in my box so I`ll make my own boring bar as you have shown. Really appreciate the advice. Chris |
| sbwhart:
Chris I've not made an IC engine but I understand that you need to hone the bore to get a very good finish, but if you're following a set of plans and build log it should tell you this. Stew |
| jim:
i usually get seamless tube off ebay, i've need some odd ball sizes, always managed to find it! |
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