| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Cylinder Bore 7/8" at a depth of 2.5" OR use DOM/CRS ? |
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| Dean W:
Chris, being your cylinder is made of CI, you don't likely need a liner. Those are usually used when the outer part of the cylinder would be made of something like aluminum. A good material for dispersing heat, but not for a cylinder bore, so a liner would be pressed in to get the best of both worlds. Jason, nice demo you put up! |
| Jasonb:
Yes, I was forgetting yours is an aircooled engine, just bore the wood to fit the OD of the cylinder. Liners are often used on water cooled model engines as the cylinder has a hollowed out section for the water to flow through and the liner closes this off, it would likely have been cast in on a full size. Jason |
| raynerd:
Excellent...thanks, I thought it was the case but it was worth checking! I`m sorry to be a pita, but I do have another questions. I`m just wondering how to ensure that the bore of the cylinder is square to the face so that it aligns properly and the piston does not try and enter at an angle. I presume to ensure that it is square to the bore, facing the cylinder should be ideally be done immediately after or before boring while held in the same position in the wooden block. If this is the case, I can only imagine you can face the front end while held in the wooden block, by flycutting in the lathe?? That would ensure one face (which would be the front) is square to the bore. Am I right with regards to this or is there are better method? I will have to cut the fins on the cylinder as well, perhaps a good fitting tapered stub or expanding mandrel into the bore and face up both ends from this and also cut the fins at the same time would be another method? Chris |
| Jasonb:
You can machien one end and the OD at the same setting in the lathe chuck. Then bore in your wooden block with teh other untrue end facing teh headstock so you can as you say flycut the end, I would make this end the crank end. A mandrel would also work, expanding would liekly be best on this size engine and may well hold better against the parting cuts for the fins. You could always do the fins while the bar is still in the chuck and use a tailstock centre for support, Think I would go this way as you will get the best grip of the work. Jason |
| raynerd:
Jason, sorry, must have missed your reply. Thanks. When you say, "You could always do the fins while the bar is still in the chuck and use a tailstock centre for support," do you mean when I am taking the cast down to size in the chuck before boring, cut the fins at this stage? I did consider this but was worried that removing material off the outer diameter for the fins would leave less surface area for the wooden block to clamp down on ready for boring. |
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