Cylinder Bore 7/8" at a depth of 2.5" OR use DOM/CRS ?

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raynerd:
Thank you for the comment Dean. Am I correct in presuming for this method to work, you must ensure that the bar holding the cutter must be dead centre in the hole/bore you have cut ready? And also that this method will just take the final cut to size as there is no adjustment on the cutter? Seems a smart little method - I think I`d be worried about centering the bar in the original bore from the start.

Totally :offtopic:, I was browsing your site Dean, back in October and saw the Jerry Howell - Propane burner that you have build. I ordered the plans and they arrived yesterday. :proj: another one to go on the growing list, along with the long list of things I`ve build that haven`t run. Sad thing is, I now realise why some aren`t running but I just can`t find time to try and fix them! So anyway, just wanted to say thanks for an excellent writeup and build of the burner!!

Chris

Jasonb:
You can adjust the cutter length with sone careful use of a micromiter and a bit of calculation. and yes concentricity is important, you could machine something like the pic and use that as a clamp to hold your liner, so long as you don't remove it from teh lathe it will hold the liner spot on.

J

Rob.Wilson:
Hi Chris

If you decide to go for a boring bar between centres ,,, it would be well worth making one of these for setting the cutter :dremel:

Great little tool ,, only take an hour or so to make , Design came from one of the early MEW mags ,,, i could look it out if you want :thumbup:

Rob

raynerd:
That is bloody genious! I like that a lot. Considering both yourself and Dean have mentioned this method of boring between centres, is this a method I should look into more rather than the standard boring bar that I was intending on using? Would this give me a more accurate bore with a better finish. My concern with this method is still how to ensure that the bar is setup dead centre of the roughed bore/hole in the work piece. Also I would have to think about how I can hold the job on the saddle and adjusting it so that it is centre. I`ll have to try and read into this method a bit more.

I`m collecting my materials (cast iron) tomorrow so I`m eager to cut, but for once I`ll hold back until I`m clear which method to use.

John Stevenson:

--- Quote from: craynerd on January 01, 2011, 08:35:28 AM --- My concern with this method is still how to ensure that the bar is setup dead centre of the roughed bore/hole in the work piece. Also I would have to think about how I can hold the job on the saddle and adjusting it so that it is centre. I`ll have to try and read into this method a bit more.

--- End quote ---

Turn two tapered bushes that are parallel in the bore and a good fit on the bar. the OD has to be larger than your bore at one end and less than the pilot hole at the other .
Fit these onto the bar, one at one end small diameter facing inwards, then the cylinder / part then the second bush opposite to the first.
push the bushes tight into the cylinder then pack and clamp up in this position.
lastly slide the bushes out the way and either remove the bar and bushes or just tape the bushes to the bar so they can't foul, then fit the boring tool.

Simples.

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