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| PekkaNF:
It is a brand new "diamond" wheel they say. And it should be the "fine" wheel, option is "coarse". Pekka |
| PekkaNF:
I really need some advice/feedback. I have sharpened some drills long time ago manually and concluded that the drills cut, but hard to get cutting edges really symmetrical. I appreciate that drill sharpening is bit complex and involved, but it can be done and drill doctor promises that. --- Quote from: ieezitin on December 18, 2016, 06:26:01 PM ---Pekka You are not going to achieve sharpening that 4mm drill its too small for the machine, the 6mm is about its limit for a half decent grind, these machines don't really work the process is inherently flawed. For small or large size drills to be sharpened you either need to throw $1500 minimum for a Deckel or equivalent or learn to do it by hand its not hard, or make a tool grinder. Anthony. --- End quote --- An nevertheless, advertisement says "Drill Doctor 750X , sharpens 2.5-19 mm drill bits with custom point angle between 118° and 135°". --- Quote from: Manxmodder on December 18, 2016, 08:27:16 PM ---Jees! the drills in the photos do show very poor grinding profile and finish. Pekka,are you using a carborundum wheel,or the diamond coated one? I can honestly say I have never had any drills come out looking that rough with the Drill Doctor I have on loan. If I get a few minutes spare later today I will pull it out of the box and try a couple of grinds on 4 and 6 mm drills and see how it turns out compared to the ones you have shown......OZ. --- End quote --- I think that the grinding wheel has some bigger diamond particles here and there, that's why the finish is coarse. I tried to adjust it to grind bare minimum, but the "leaves" that center the drill don't work well on very small protrusion. I'm also grinding very slowly. I wonder if the wheel is also a little off center, because first few tries produced multifaceted grind and could feel how it was vibrating. Impossible to get any good edge without using two hands to move the collet slowly and steady. I wonder if it improves or gets worse when used a bit more? The main sharpening port feels a little shady. The tip splitting port is really tight. First I was thinkkint that I'm doing something wrong when i pushed the collet forward and nothing happened. Then I checked everything and because it looks like it should work I tried with a bit more force and then it did ground the bit (funny split....but least some thinning) and then the collet was stuck :Doh: I'm not excluding here an operator lack of skill, but it appears like it could be tinkered to sharpen dozen identical drills, but a box of different shape and size drills is hardly worth of the hassle. Pekka |
| Roger B:
Has anyone tried the Proxxon drill sharpener? I looked at one a while ago but at the time thought that the cost ~200 would buy a lot of drill bits. |
| PekkaNF:
Saw the proxon once and it feels like a toy. I did not like it. On HMS only way I can rationale drill sharpener is that it can sharpen most drill sizes and designs one off when you have chipped the last fraction size drill and want to sharpen it without too much distraction. That what I was expecting from rom drill doctor. But it looks like it drill doctor falls shor of my expectations. What I really would like to is to lap the the drill right at the first trouble. To restore sharpness before any real trouble. First picture is of drills 10 mm and smaller. These are past prime, but drill doctor would leave then more dull than they are now. Bugger. I was trying some more with very old fashion and cheap drill design that does not cut well even straigh out of box. Standard setting as on the guide did not produce cutting edge. Bit more cutting angle (two notches back (+) at the initial setting changes cutting angle closer, but the chisel angle looks bit funny. Last picture is 10 mm drill bit after drill doctor and 9,5 mm similar stock drill. How can I make this drill doctor work or are they sopposed to be really this bad? Pekka |
| Lew_Merrick_PE:
Pekka -- I have never seen such a chewed up tip on any bit going through my Drill Doctor. My 2 cents worth of observation is that either (A) you got shipped a unit that should have been rejected, or (B) your unit was damaged in transit. As I have said, my unit is more than a decade old. The only "issue" I have with it is getting the "leaves" to align the bit properly -- something that counts more as "finicky." According to their website, the e-mail address for them is info@darex.com -- I would send them a couple of your pictures and ask for "suggestions." They used to be both knowledgeable and helpful (though it has been 5+ years since last I dealt with them). |
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