| The Breakroom > The Water Cooler |
| Drill Doctor |
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| krv3000:
hi any one seen them yellow ones on eBay they use er20 collets go from 2mm to 13 mm |
| PekkaNF:
Lew: Thank you. I drop them a mail with pictures. Let's see. I would like to isolate the problem somewhere. Now that I found really bad drill I can use to try out different techniques and see what is the holdup. Pekka * I actually got an answer from their technical support containing bit more information than the manual about relation of the Alignment of the drill/chuck vs. drill bit angle and helix. That I already had some glue, but the write-up was really nice and I will go trough it carefully. * I get the radial chuck cam action, but i haven't got clear understanding how the chuck stops positive on "feed". The spark out feels not very exact. Maybe I just should more force, but I don't want to put too much flex on it. Or maybe it just needs that? |
| PekkaNF:
Allright...we are getting somewhere The instruction I got was sort of supplement to DD consumer instructions. It has the same step byt step instructions and some little extras that needs a little interpretation. Not sure if I got it all correctly, but I'm writing here my interpretation. Feel free to comment. Things I reset and star all over: 1. Set the "depth" MTO to all out (max) and then three notches back. This seems to affect least as much on material removal than aligment. 2: On aligment por there is indexer (relief angle setting), marked at the middle 118....apparently this middle setting is actually used to compensate drill helix angle. The 118 point angle refers to normal helix angle on that size drills. That needs an anticipation or experiment. The suplement says that if the angle between lip and chissel point is suposed to be 45 to 60 degrees. If it is larger turn notch (or two) positive clock vice at the alligment and vice versa. 3. Apparently I was pressing the drill down too gentle during sharpening, it really seems to need delibrate action. So, this is about drill that cuts well, looks about right, but bore size is a bit over. 10,0 mm drill produces 10,1 - 10,2 mm oversize hole on GRP500 cast iron. Seems to cut also on lip more that the other one. Needs to check. Some pictures here and bit more testing follws. Did sharpen the 4 mm and 6 mm drills with same setting and results. Darex tech support was nice and helpfull. Thank you Lew. Pekka |
| mcostello:
Evidently I don't have the same model as You have but the blue color You are getting is detrimental to the life of the drill bit. Grind a bit slower, the drill is getting too hot. |
| awemawson:
I'd assumed that he'd painted it with layout blue to see better where the grind was :scratch: |
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