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| Lew_Merrick_PE:
Pekka, 1) My Drill Doctor is more than a decade old. I would have to go look to tell you what model number it is. 2) Your photograph PC113969c.jpg shows the "leaves" I refer to. It appears in your photograph that there is some adjustment in the "stop" in your machine. I would be very careful about "playing" with that. [Opinion.] 3) The "heel issue" is why I emphasize setting the "leaves" to contact the flute just "above" the cutting lip. Does that help? |
| PekkaNF:
Thank you, I think that I have enough information to try it out when I'll get the transformer. 2. Yes that is an adjustement that is used to adjust depth of grinding. Darex calls it Material Take Off. Basically it is a stop that limits drill bit extension. larger extension = More material removed. I think it will have effect on that "leaves" aligment too. To what extent I don't know. On trainig video has a basic setup (something like all in and then "three" something out....it can't be rounds, the whole adjustment span is not three rounds. The bolt end is stationary and there is knob (nut) on the other side. Pekka |
| PekkaNF:
OK, I have done some testing and so far I am not impressed. I have tested only a little bit and only resorted to the instructions that came with it. I don't claim expertice on drill sharpening. I just use a lot off drills. Sales pitch makes it sound like it works straigh out of box and using it does not need any fiddling. I started with good drills that were only slight battle damage: * 4,0 mm stub drill (for pop rivets) * 6,0 mm very traditional drill, but fully ground. * 6,5 mm drill with larger than normal space for swarf and really easy drilling, needs very little force. It is not easy to develop good feel with it. Maybe 100 drills later I can produce near acceptable results with it? I geel like it needs a special touch... First drill came out awfully facetted, if held softly the plastic drill holder wibrates in plastic cradle and even when shape looks nearly acceptable it looks horrible under magnifying lense and cuts unevenly. Yes, it can salvage drills - sort off, * that sort of geometry is ground that drill cuts metal, but chissel end pushes metal. * I haven't foud out a usefull way to thin the chissel end. It sort of works, but not really. * Grinding wheel leaves very coarse finnish * Plastic parts and weak construction leads vibration/faceting/bad accuracy. I'm putting here some pictures of the 4 mm drill that I felt was partial success. Compared to original sharpening the drill doctor left it worse on these points: * needs much more force to push, web is thick, thinning does nothing on this small size * Coarse finnish, burr, probably edge does not last too long See picture PC183991_4mm how it should be and rest how it comes out of drill doctor |
| ieezitin:
Pekka You are not going to achieve sharpening that 4mm drill its too small for the machine, the 6mm is about its limit for a half decent grind, these machines don't really work the process is inherently flawed. For small or large size drills to be sharpened you either need to throw $1500 minimum for a Deckel or equivalent or learn to do it by hand its not hard, or make a tool grinder. Anthony. |
| Manxmodder:
Jees! the drills in the photos do show very poor grinding profile and finish. Pekka,are you using a carborundum wheel,or the diamond coated one? I can honestly say I have never had any drills come out looking that rough with the Drill Doctor I have on loan. If I get a few minutes spare later today I will pull it out of the box and try a couple of grinds on 4 and 6 mm drills and see how it turns out compared to the ones you have shown......OZ. |
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