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| PeterE builds a 3d Printer |
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| picclock:
Hi PeterE Good to see your further info. The M4 screw looked very smart. Do you not have allthread/studding that you can use for long fasteners? just seems a lot less effort to use that. Loved the display case mockup. If you had a 3d printer you could print one of those :lol: Its a nuisance needing stuff to build the printer. I have bent up a rather poor fan shroud for cooling the drivers out of aluminium, all the while thinking what a waste of time as I will replace it with a printed one at the earliest opportunity (or when I get round to it :hammer: ). Keep up the good project log. Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Bluechip, So the same goes for you in UK. Odd sized = very expensive and few suppliers. In my case I only need two. picclock, The "stem" of the screws are made from pieces of a metre long M4 allthread even though it does not show on the blurry image, sorry. The mockup of the display case is of course being targeted for a print later on, but now I need something for protection and to find out if any mods are desireable, swiveling or tilting foot perhaps, or anything else that might come in handy. Well nuisance or not I think the need for making things on the way as they are discovered is one of the temptations/challenges to solve and also a part of the effort to develop a well functioning machine with precision from everyday bits. A thing here and a bit there will make good results. The biggest difference so far I have found is that most of the fasteners were designed for imperial system as far as I can see. Re-designing for metric did show a few misses, like the long M4's for ex. Also there were countersinks for nuts at the back that were dimensioned for M3 nuts! In my opinion M3 would have been too thin for the application. I guess such differences comes from differently sized standard imperial measure components versus metric ones. I'll be back as soon as I get some more done. /Peter |
| picclock:
Hi PeterE If the nut recesses are M3 you can likely bodge it by placing an M4 nut over the opening and applying a soldering iron to the nut to melt the plastic, allowing a tight fit. The excess plastic can be trimmed after its cooled. Keep up the good work Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, Thanks for the idea, did not think of that, and while very useful I am a little reluctant to do it with the whole thing assembled and in place. I solved it in another way. I opened up the through-hole to match the 4mm countersink and used that to broach the six-sided hole into a round one suiting the nut much better. Careful and slow work and it all went well. But I will keep it in mind for later bodges. Thansk again! /Peter |
| tom37:
Peter If you need a metal printer, You likely have on MIG printer (i.e. welder) If you have 3axis cmc mill, a little scrap and you have trial printer. Good luck tom |
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