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| PeterE builds a 3d Printer |
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| PeterE:
OK, so let's start with this one. It will be a slow build as it has to be fitted into the too small time for hobbies and there are more projects than this. Anyhow, I found this useful left-over piece of counter-topafter we updated our washing room the other year. It has a black laminate topping and is ready laminated at top, back side and the right edge. The left edge have the cut edge which is still not sealed by laminate strip - but it will be. It is about 40mm thick which I think should be sturdy enough for this little printer. All the box frame pieces have been sawn out from a piece of 12mm furniture plywood (7-layer type). I think you can also see that I have doubled the thickness of the fron by gluing a second piece of ply to it. I want good thickness for the screws securing the Z and X travel parts.. And finally a trial assembly to see what needs to be adjusted and to make sure that the front of the box frame is absolutely perpendicular to the base. I find it an advantage to make trial assemblies to get a hint on where minor adjustments are necessary and then only have to glue and screw once. The marking tape with a line shows the centerline of the baseboard as a help to get the fram front in right angle to the base in X. Will add to this when suitable bits arrive. /Peter |
| bertie_bassett:
looks like a solid start |
| nrml:
I will be following this thread keenly. I have just finished building a prusa i3 from a kit (still yet to be calibrated and commissioned). I am not very impressed with the rigidity of the frame or the amount of slop between the linear bearings and smooth rods. Yours looks like it will be a lot more rigid. Are you going to use smooth rods or vee slot extrusions? |
| PeterE:
Thanks bertie_b, we will see where it goes. nrml, the reason for chosing the box frame was that I was uncertain about the rigidity between the Y-axis motion and the rest in the plate version. Only a couple of nuts securing the upright plate to the table motion seems optimistic to me. The box frame has a rigidity built-in so to say and the Y-axis motion is secured very differently as well. I will start using smooth rods. Have found drawn stainless rounds to h9 tolerance which is the same as for the ground ones. These should have quite little sloppiness with the linear bearings. I tried one on and couldn't feel any slop so far. We will see where it goes. There are other linear motion solutions to look at if this does not work. BR /Peter |
| Jonny:
Look forward to this one Peter, keep a tab on the costs. |
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