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| PeterE builds a 3d Printer |
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| PeterE:
picclock, Thanks a lot! Ah, -12V, that one i did leave out this time. Interesting findings about the temp issues for the stepper drivers. Must make sure I can arrange something useful for extra cooling. It also sounds that some sort of airflow guidance would be useful to ensure good cooling. Have to think about that. Yes, I will have thermistors connected both to the heatbed and the extruder nozzle. chipenter, Thanks for the code! Must try that at starting-up time. In the meantime and while waiting for bits I have made a mock-up from some styrene bits I had laying around. Thought I might make it presentable at least. I know I will not be able to print myself for some time yet and the display is needed before that. The top side looks like this: ... ... and the bottom side like this. Nothing complicated but good enough to test both where the panel is best fitted and if there should be any extras like storage for SD cards or the like. /Peter |
| picclock:
Hi Peter E If you are just waiting for the resistor to arrive for the 5v load, you can easily use a car light bulb. These give off a deep orange glow and can look cool !! :thumbup:. Any light bulb will do (probably 10W minimum) though I'm not sure if the very small lower wattage interior lights would work. Because it will work off of 5v it should last forever (well, as long as the psu :med:). Marlin gives you the ability to check the motors. Just go to the prepare menu, select autohome (won't work without that - bug in marlin I think) then select move axis and the distance, and rotate the jog control to see the motor move. You can't check extruder or z axis with just Marlin (if so I've just not found it ). Using octoprint (octopi even) gives me complete wireless control of all the axis and the extruder, even from my phone (must get smaller fingers). I have had to do all the other stuff so I can work out where to drill the mounting holes in the granite base - so its all got a bit out of order for me. Still, nice to know it will all work Ok. Good luck and good progress. Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, Thanks for comments, very useful! I looked at the light bulb idea but to my surprise found that it would be much more expensive than waiting for the resistor :bugeye: so it will be a resistor. Good to know that there are means to check the drives already in the program. Will do that when all is going. That about wireless control also seems very interesting! Must look further into that as well. We are not meeting any particular deadlines I think, so if some steps take a little longer than intended I don't think it really matters. What matters much more is that it will be as intended and tought out in the end! So, while waiting for bits I have made a mockup of the "box" for the display - yes, I know it looks horrible but it is a mockup! :med: Anyways, one thing to remember is that the slot for the SD memory is at the left side of the display and that have to be accessible with ease regardless of where the thing is placed. So, now to where to place it? To me there are four possible positions on the machine, the question is which is the best one???? No 1 - At the upper left corner of the portal This has the advantage of short distance to connect to the electronics, the downside is that I have to stretch across the machine even while it moves. No 2 - At the baseplate to the left of the build board This has the advantage of being easy to access and to handle SD-cards, the downside for me is that it is to the left as I normally use my right hand. No 3 - At the center of the baseplate in front of the build board. Advantage, easy access and easy to handle SD cards. Really a quite OK position. The possible downside would be if it is in the way of work when removing built items from the board? No 4 - At the baseplate to the right of the build board. This is the easiest place for me - I think - with easy access and easy handling of SD cards. But it have to be placed in front of the build board to avoid hiding the SD card access. All four positions have their advantages and downsides. Many I have seen are placed where can be done due to cable lengths I think, and others place it where seems fit and fixes the cables to suit. If placed on top of the portal I think it should be skewed a bit so the panel faces the user standing in the middle. If placed on the baseplate, the display should be tilted like in the images to be easy to read and avoid un-necessary light reflections. I would like to get some input on this before I finally decide, I have an idea but don't want to bias any answers and thoughts. Just general comments are good as this is a small usability test. BR /Peter |
| PeterE:
Still no thoughts??? Ah well let's carry on then ... Today I made a smallish thing that needed special attention. Anyone tried to find M4x60 screws? Hard to find? at least they are in Sweden! It seems only a few companies stock them and sell over the net at insane prices :loco: Only one thing left to do = make your own! Two small bits of the leftovers of the 8mm smooth stainless rod was drilled, threaded M4, cut to length, and given a screwdriver slot thereby making up two screw heads. With a suitable piece of all-thread the sought-after screws are there to an immensly lower price and they get exactly as long as you want/need :D The all-thread is secured with a drop of Loctite and we have a screw. Now the extruder is in place: Next is to fit the extruder head and the feed something that will include some more special bits as it seems. /Peter |
| Bluechip:
Have had some long metric screws from here : http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/M4-x-0-70mm_B22V22.aspx Even got M4 x 100mm Just A2 cap screws. Only know a few places in UK that do long machine screws in similar lengths but they only do 100's :( as you say at insane prices. ( particularly if you only want a few ...) Dave |
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