Author Topic: Gorra3Dprinter  (Read 8556 times)

Offline John Stevenson

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Gorra3Dprinter
« on: December 15, 2013, 04:31:13 PM »
OK, last week found a guy who had bought one of the RS printers so went to have a look.

Machine is well build compare to the rest of the reprap machines but as I guessed it uses the same open source software as the kits.

I got him to print a small file I had which took 42 minutes and to be honest I wasn't impressed on the quality. Lacked square corners and furry in places with the layers clearly visible.

Having also seen and had a test print done by one of the UP printers, which incidentally took 25 minutes for the same part, bit the bullet and bought one.

Bought it from Cutwel [ yes correct spelling ] same price as everyone else but did get a deal on some ABS filament.

Set it up on the coffee table last night whilst relaxing with planning permission from her indoors. Very quiet, nearly silent and only a whiff of smell from the ABS but hey it's testing time.

Dead easy to setup, first print came out perfect [ pics later ] had a couple of problems on later prints getting started but it was down to me not following a procedure, once this procedure is picked up so far every print has come out OK.

So far printing off the spare parts needed in the event of a breakdown which are on the disc.

Done one spiral bevel gear which has finished up with an awesome surface finish.

Plenty of gizmo's to print if you fancy over at Thingiverse but what i have noticed is that in most cases the finish I'm getting is far better than the ones shown, presumably done on repraps ?

From what I can gather the secret of the UP's in in the software and the way it supports the work. One part i have printed is a clamp to hold the belt on the X axis and it has two small slots for the belt to go though.

It looked to have printed solid but when stripping there were two support pads keeping the two sides apart which when cooled easily pulled out.
John Stevenson

Offline Pete.

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2013, 05:16:16 PM »
Be nice to see some of the stuff you've printed John. Was it the Up 2 you got? Did you manage to print a bearing like the demo video? :)

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2013, 05:32:45 PM »
Yes UP2 Plus.
Busy printing some of the spares needed if it breaks anything.
Not done the bearing yet, can't think of a use for it.

Will post some pics later when it's finished printing.
John Stevenson

Offline awemawson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2013, 05:42:12 PM »
Someones blowing all their Christmas prezzy money at once  :lol:

Can it print 5/8"  x 2" BSF hex socket grub screws in HT steel  :scratch:

Nice toy - I'll house it when you get bored.

Andrew
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline Pete.

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2013, 02:05:29 AM »
Not done the bearing yet, can't think of a use for it.

Stress buster?

Let's face it, it's a pretty darn cool thing to print out!

Offline tom osselton

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2013, 02:39:28 AM »
I'm looking at the replicator 2x and the scanner I've never used one but have been following them for a couple years.
It can be used like the lost wax process for casting too!

Found this microsoft's new 3d app for window's 8

  http://makezine.com/2013/11/15/preview-microsoft-releases-3d-builder-touchscreen-3dp-app-today/

Has anyone seen it yet?
« Last Edit: December 16, 2013, 03:10:50 AM by tom osselton »

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2013, 06:00:38 AM »
Pics.




Some of the spares for the printer being done, all the small parts are belt clamps that in the event of a major crash, break.
Big bit is something to do with the feed spool.

The raft is clearly shown and the fuzzy bits are where it's changing from solid to support which is printed a lot differently.
The really fuzzy bits on the part bottom left are the supports for the holes so they don't collapse.




Another shot of the same job. this is just after it finished printing and nothing has been touched.




Finished bits with the supports pulled off. Centre piece bottom left had two flat supports like packers either side of that L shaped piece that just needed a bit of help with a craft knife to poke out, not cut as they weren't fastened and stuck to the surface.



Now the obligatory bearing.



    Upside down shot after scraping off the perf bed.




    Shot with the raft snapped off, just pulled this off with my fingers, smaller parts often want a knife to peel them or a finger nail. You can see one ball support has come off with the support raft, just needs the others picking off.



    Finished bearing. Quality is not bad but I sped the process up by selecting 0.3mm hight of layer and hollow fill. this printed in just under the hour.
    If I had gone to 0.15 hight and solid then it would probably
    have taken 3 to 4 hours.
    I printed to spare parts in solid as they need mechanical strength, this is just arty farty although it does spin.
    Quality is about as good as Bridgeport spindle bearings.

    Last one is a spiral bevel gear from Art Fenerty's Gearotic program.




    Bit disappointed with this picture as in the plastic it's a lot better than it looks, again hollow fill to speed the process up but finish is good. 1 hour 35 minutes to do this.

    Programming is automatic, load the STL file and it places it in the best position although you do have a choice.
    Press print and if you want you can disconnect the laptop and do something else whilst it carries on.

    Overall quite impressed.

John Stevenson

Offline NeoTech

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2013, 09:36:33 AM »
You can make it even smoother by letting the plastic breathe some acetone fumes as well it will smooth out the wrinkles a bit. check google for that i saw some on tested.com regarding that. =)

And yes most 3D printed plastic part things lookes like shiet. ;/
Machinery: Optimum D320x920, Optimum BF20L, Aciera F3. -- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. http://www.roughedge.se/blogg/

Offline loply

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2013, 04:18:15 PM »
John, do the parts have any strength?

I love the idea of 3D printing but the awful finish and the fact the parts look like they'll split with the slightest force has kept me back.

Your gear looks better than most other parts I've seen though. How much was the machine?

Cheers,
Rich

Offline raynerd

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2013, 06:58:14 PM »
Hi john, nice looking machine. I appreciate the comparison between this and the reprap but I've seen damn good parts done on a reprap and based on their website, this machine retails at x4-6 as much! Nice prints though! 

Chris

Offline tom osselton

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2013, 07:19:22 PM »
Nice looking prints. How is the bearing measurements for size? 
I'm getting closer to getting one, sold 100 shares of facebook  but still have to convert from Us to Canadian,  and figure out paypal it's linked to account so it should take from the account right?

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2013, 07:36:54 PM »
Unfortunately Chris I haven't seen the quality.
I can understand the quality problems with the spindly rod builds, in fact David Clark editor of MEW posted from the Sandown show that the 3 machines on the maker stand were shaking themselves to pieces on head reversals.

Must admit I'd like to have saved the money, even waited until someone I knew bought one of the £500 RS printers and went and had a look.
Machine looked decent but print quality was poor. non square corners and clearly visible layers and stringers.

Just printed 5 pieces tonight, all have come out very well and the support just pulls away with your fingers, no craft knife needed.

Tom, can't answer that question as I don't know what size the original file was. It was a file I downloaded.

When I went to see the UP working at a friends he's printed a 30mm cube when he got his and it measured 30.2 x 29.8 in two axis but he hadn't calibrated the machine at this stage.

I haven't either but need to do so. It takes about 1 1/2 hours to run the calibration file which prints 4 vertical towers and you measure across the pillars and enter the values and the software then knows any errors and compensates.

I want it to make some electrical motor control parts for a range of obsolete motors but they are so special they have to be repaired.

Quality and strength is what is needed and having tried one of the UP printers before I bought I was satisfied even though the price is a fair bit higher.

Lopoly,
Printed in ABS in 0.15mm layers and solid, no fill they are very strong. Printed a extra belt joiner tonight, 10mm wide, 30mm long and 2-3mm thick and it took a lot of bending and twisting before it tore as opposed to breaking or snapping.
John Stevenson

Offline chipenter

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2013, 03:56:58 AM »
At Sandown park the three printers in the end room the frames were made from M D F , but there was a fourth on a small stand in the main hall with metal frames and a three d scanner ,the hole thing was much smaller, my friend who I was with has ordered one for patern making , will have a look when it arives .
Jeff

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2013, 07:28:31 AM »
Anyone looked at the Robox from CEL?
It has a claimed layer resolution of 20 microns.

I have an Ord Hadron which is pretty solid but let down with a crap extruder (fixable)

Offline NeoTech

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2013, 08:22:47 AM »
Ok i have to say it.. most of us here have stable home machines in our homes / workshop.. Why go buy a premade 3D printer? The software is free the electronics can be bought for less than the plastic the machine needs.. And im guessing anyone of you can build a machine thats 100x more ridgid and have higher precision than any of the premade machines. Thare usually flimsy at best.. With a few exceptions of course. But those are pretty expensive anyway.

ORD, Up and Makerbot last generation is expensive as hell but usually have pretty nice details. (there is a sea of 3d printers as well)
Machinery: Optimum D320x920, Optimum BF20L, Aciera F3. -- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. http://www.roughedge.se/blogg/

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2013, 08:40:29 AM »
Why,
Well I can only answer for myself but if I had to build one it would be build # 34,569,235
I have literally 3 cnc lathes been stripped for conversion, 8 mills and 2 routers in the same boat and still running a one man repair shop which takes preference over all the other jobs.

This machine will be earning from about day 8 when i have sorted out drawings and files.
John Stevenson

Offline Joules

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2013, 09:25:15 AM »
 Got to agree with John on this one.  For the cost of a printer, when you factor in the time to build from scratch what you can earn when working during that time the cost is actually quite low.  My business is prototypes, I enjoy making and doing, but a printer is a means to an end so I will be buying a ready built at some point.  I am happy to let someone else develop and iron the wrinkles out of it.

Honour your mentors, and pay it forward.

Offline Pete.

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2013, 07:36:05 AM »
I wonder if anyone has thought of producing a 3d head that could rotate and print from the side etc perhaps for printing onto an existing feature? That would be pretty cool.

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2013, 07:43:39 AM »
I think gravity plays a big part here.
I saw a lego brick printed on a reprap that had the knobblie bits on the sides as well as top and botton and they were teardrop shaped.

Given that it built it up with no supports.
John Stevenson

Offline NeoTech

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Re: Gorra3Dprinter
« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2013, 01:03:28 PM »
The stereolithic approach is prob. better for offprotruding features. But its bloody expensive way of making plastic thingys :D
Machinery: Optimum D320x920, Optimum BF20L, Aciera F3. -- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. http://www.roughedge.se/blogg/