If you want to do away with the clamping bolt then that seems tricky and would involve precision fit slides. If it's just for ease of adjustment, how about a screw or pair of screws through the top of your slot(s) and tapped into your bolt. You'd probably need some way to prevent the rotation of the bolt (eg flat sides running in the slots) and enough play to allow the bolt to be tightened.
Russell
I THINK I can get the "up/Down-parts" (the block with the MORSE taper in it) to slide accurately enough with that milling faces I plan in the block itself and the sides it fits into - don't you think ?
The bolt has a nut on the hidden side ... and I beleave the bolt needs to be free and even removeable.
My first thoughts was a threaded rod (bolt) in two diagonal corners of the MORSE-taper block pushing against the bottum plate . I think I will HAVE TO adjust them BOTH to prevent the 'block' to get stocked between the "ways" - it doesn't look too clever, I think

- would only one bolt do, you think ?