Author Topic: Tramm lines  (Read 3763 times)

Offline rotorhead

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Tramm lines
« on: February 03, 2013, 04:41:32 AM »
Hi Lads,

Leveled me miller, so set about making a tramm, had this deep hole boring bar which I used in the Autolock, so recycled it.

Got a length of 25mm 24T, not specifically for this, but the size was right for the hole that ended up at in the bar, bored that with a re-furbed 25mm fly cutter.

Took a chance the miller wasn't too far from vertical, drilled and reamed the 25mm bar for the 2 dials and the centre locating indent, then chopped to length.

Split the ends, after drilling and tapping 3/16" unc.

Set it up on the miller to see what it showed up, I followed the tips given on the DRO-Machine website for their tramming gauge.

Here's a few pics....

Chris
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline rotorhead

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2013, 04:49:21 AM »
Hi again,

A few more pics, of the resulting check...

Forgot to validate my findings, distance between the gauges is 7".

The 3 thou out on the right, would indicate not a lot from vertical laterally (X), I have it set that way so as not to get tool marks on the back sweep.

On the (Y) there is about 1/2 a thou, not bad for an old machine, so very pleased with my findings....

Chris
« Last Edit: February 03, 2013, 03:27:38 PM by rotorhead »
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2013, 06:26:20 AM »
Hi Chris.

Very nicely done, from available materials.....  :clap: :clap: :thumbup:


I've seen these tramming aids, for some time now.
But, I can't get my head around why 2 clocks are needed. Compared to a single one, on an arm held in the chuck.

How are the clocks set, in relation to each other?
Is there a total reliance, on the horizontal bar remaining at 90* to the m/c spindle, for ever?

I was a Miller for most of my working life.
But have only ever needed to tramm my mini mill. Using a piece of 8" square, 6mm plate glass, and a clock on a stick.....

Am I missing something?  :scratch:

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline awemawson

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2013, 06:39:12 AM »
Double gauge set up is easier if you are adjusting the head all the time, and it avoids craning your neck round the back to read one side while tweaking. Particularly useful on a Bridgeport where you are adjusting in two planes.

If you set a gauge block or other decent surface on the table, and swing each gauge over it in turn and zero them both while the block stays in one place, then it matters not a jot how precise your bar is as both gauges are set to compensate.
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2013, 07:00:10 AM »
Andrew.
Thank you!  :thumbup:

Gottit! ......... Zero both clocks  to the same setting block, in the same table position........  :doh:

Simples!

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline rotorhead

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2013, 07:02:45 AM »
Hi David,

No, you're not missing anything, I made it purely as an exercise to check if my universal head spindle was indeed in correct alignment.

Your method will work equally aswell, the method for setting the tramm up is very simple, and it doesn't rely on anything being in total alignment with anything else.

All that is needed to do each time it is used, is to use any suitable single height block, bring up the table or the spindle down to a set height and zero it, then swing each of the dials round to the setting block and zero each one to that height.

Remove the block, then align the tramm to either axis, and bring the table into contact with the dials, if both read zero upon contact with the table in either or both directions, it's spot on.

If there is a difference, then adjust the spindle alignment to suit your preference, like I said in my post, I like a slight amount of clearance on the back cut/sweep, especially whilst skimming Alloy heads(because of pickup), cast iron don't seem to have that problem.

As can be seen on mine there is 3 thou over 7", I'm not clever enough to work out the actual mis-alignment amount of the head....

It would allow me though, to perfectly align it for some serious boring on the miller, if it can't be done on the lathe.

Whilst writing this Awemawson provided the answer, thanks for that Andrew.... :beer:

Chris
« Last Edit: February 03, 2013, 09:13:27 AM by dsquire »
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Tramm lines
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2013, 08:21:40 AM »
Thanks Chris!
I've got it, now.......  :thumbup:

Boggie made the first one I ever saw.
He went to great lengths, to ensure the assembly was square to itself. (About 3/4 down the page.....  http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,822.0.html
This emphasis on joint accuracy has remained with me.....

I thought the clock probes were set to match each other, when the whole beam was sitting on a flat surface.

Not a bad record. Made my first chippings in1958. Made a living as a Miller. First time I needed to tram a mill, 2009.  :)

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!