1906 motor bike engine

[OKTomT]

Hi mad modders I have started a new project and thought I would share it.
I found a book titled Motor Bicycle Building by Paul N. Hasluck. It shows you how to build a complete motor bike with 2 different engines. I am building the larger one with lots of changes to suit me. You are supposed to make castings for many of the parts. I will use weldments.  If you try to buy this book be careful I bought the one with the flower on the cover and it has no drawings in it.    you can get the book free off the internet.   I have made quite a bit of progress on the engine and will get you caught up to where I am.  Tom     
thank you Eric for the help.   

I started with the crank shaft, its made up of the 2 flywheels, crank pin, and main journals.

[Brass_Machine]

Wow oh wow Tom!!

This is my kinda thing. I will be watching this anxiously... now to find that book!

Eric

**Edit

Found it! HERE

[OKTomT]

Thanks Eric for posting that link.
Here are some pictures of how the crankcase was made. This engine will be rough built to check the fit of parts then disassembled and  fine tuned. Are these pictures to big?

[sbwhart]

Great work 

The pics are a touch big.

Just read the book through very good read, its got me thinking if it could be scaled down to say 1/3, I'll be watching progress with great interest.

Stew

[PekkaNF]

Wow, that is a really nice crank case. Very nice. It still looks like period item.

One question: Why the nuts on crank shaft? Are pins shrink fit? Does original design asks for nuts?

Pekka

[John Stevenson]

No criticism as you are following the book but I notice the absence of balance weights on the flywheel ?

[Stilldrillin]

Oh, My...... This is going to be a cracker! 

Thanks for posting, Tom. 

I'll watch quietly. Won't be any trouble.   

David D

[OKTomT]

Thanks guys   I am working on the picture size but photobucket seams to be having a problem.

John I am not familiar with bike engines. The crank is what was in the book and the book was printed in 1906 maybe the author didn't know about balancing or the engine ran so slow it didn't matter. I plain on drilling some holes on the heave side to balance it.  I think I read some where about adding half the rod weight to the crankpin first?

Pekka the pins are tapered 3 degrees the nut holds them in. Original design

Stew I believe you could scale it to whatever size you like please post it if you do.

Here are some more pictures of the crankcases I welded the main bearing bosses in and line bored them. Made some main bearings and pressed them in. bored the hole for the cylinder and drilled and taped the cylinder mounting holes.  Tom

[Brass_Machine]

Tom,

That is some cool work... 

[Rob.Wilson]

Fooking hell Tom       ,those casings look excellent 


Rob

[micktoon]

I like what I see Tom  , looks spot on , I will be watching with interest, Keep up the good work 

  Cheers Mick

[John Stevenson]

Tom.
Really really nice work, like the hollow dowel to locate the cases.

Balancing involves adding metal opposite to the load ie, piston and rod or removing metal close to the load.
So in your case it would mean drilling holes to either side of the crank pin.

Here's a nice book to help on a lot of design issues.

http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk/files/TuningForSpeedByPhilIrving.pdf

Page 96 covers balancing.

But I would like to say I'm not trying to nit pick on Tom's build which I have to admit is nothing short of brilliant

[Pete.]

Pretty cool

Are the casing halves dowelled together? Will you line-bore the main journals together with the casing halves joined?

I love how welding porosity looks just like casting blemishes 

[Stilldrillin]

I've seen several similar builds, over the years.

I love to see how quality plating and welding work comes together,  to produce "castings"...... 

David D

[Jasonb]

Thats going to be a nice looking engine.

Funny enough I was only talking to Jo over on MEM the other day about making a similar style crankcase but to use a Hoglet as the remainder of the engine rather than using teh open crank design.

This may give you some inspiration http://flashbackfab.com/excelsior-project-paul-brodie/

[DavidA]

John,

Thanks for that link.

Irving's book was 'the Bible' when I was a teenager trying to get my old Royal Enfield Model G (1948) to at least complete a trip without stopping.

I lost the book when my parents moved house whilst I was in the army. Now I at least have a PDF.

Dave.

[OKTomT]

Thanks guys
Pete one of the first things I did after welding the cases was install hollow dowel pins. you can see them in some of the pictures. The cases were bolted together and put in a four jaw chuck. Then the main bearing journals were bored.

John thanks for posting that book its going to be a big help. I was surprised to see the connecting rod in that book was made from parts welded together.

Next up is the cylinder. At this point I am leaving the original design. I bought a box of sleeves at a flea market and when I got home I  looked in the boxes some of them came with liner, piston, pin, and rings. The one I am using is 3.25 bore. this and a stroke of 3.75 should give me a little over 500cc  notice the 4 ring piston and dome on top. The cylinder was turned from a piece of dom tube 5' od 3' id bored and the sleeve pressed in. tom

[Pete.]

Yeah I see the dowels - right in plain view - now. Dunno how I missed those

[RotarySMP]

Great project. Are you also planning to fabricate the frame for it?

[J. Tranter]

What size tube or pipe did you use for the crank case please?

[John Stevenson]

Andyf.
Sent you a PM so as not to get OT

[OKTomT]

Hi guys
SMP the tube is 9 inch od 1/4 wall.

Pete yes the whole bike.

Here is how the connecting rod was made. The pin holes were left under size until after welding.



and the parts assembled. what you see here weights 75 lbs. 

[John Stevenson]

Bloody hell, they are big crows.

[saw]

Wow, this is something, thanks for chearing 

[AussieJimG]

A great project. Thanks for sharing.

Jim