Gallery, Projects and General > Oooops!
Stuck Collet Chuck Arbor
lordedmond:
for info my draw bar key is a 8mm allen key used one handed that limits the torque you can get on a 3/8 bsw draw bar
then it can be to much
Stuart
ukazak:
--- Quote from: philf on March 10, 2012, 12:50:44 PM ---Ukazak,
I forgot to mention to grease the threads, washer and sleeve to convert more of your turning effort into trying to extract the taper.
I think someone has mentioned trying to rapidly cool the internal taper. I have some freezing spray for fault finding in electronics but you can also get freezing sprays for plumbing. I think you'd have to put as much tension as possible with the nut and then quickly cool the chuck.
I've found the opposite works on a stuck crank on a bike - tighten up the extractor as much as you dare (the threads are quite fine and only into aluminium) and then pour a kettle of boiling water over the crank. It may be difficult to get enough heat into the spindle quickly enough without damaging anything and cooling the chuck may possibly work better.
Good Luck.
Phil.
--- End quote ---
Thanks to all,
Phil,
I noticed today, that the washer I turned and splitted is not properly functioning. little slop between the sleeve and washer is slightly tipping one side, so, it doesnt equally receive presure spread to entire diameter from the sleeve. so, only the half of power we apply is transfered to spindle. I will try another washer with wider outer diameter. logic say this has to work.
Note; threats on the chucks nut have showen no signs of any damage at all...
I may also extend the lenght of the arm of the wrench with a pipe or so for more power.. no?
Jonny:
--- Quote from: Fergus OMore on March 11, 2012, 04:21:51 AM ---
What is missing in the discussion is the 'bloody ignorance' bit.
--- End quote ---
Sorry, making a mountain out of a mole hill.
I dont have a robust US or English machine and limited to two cheap chinese mills. So far the younger is 8 years old no spindle, collet or chuck damage not as a hobby. As before just Thursday and Friday last week alone 60 times the tooling was changed in and out the MT3, now you know where i'm coming from. 15 to 25 secs to change a tool in the MT3 job done, even quicker just changing a milling cutter.
Its a knack if anyone wants to come round and video for proof just let me know, i'll get the shovel out.
Its easy to replace or make a drawbar and i tighten mine up full force 3/8", M10 and M12. Dont want the cutting forces overcoming the tightness, it it has happened a few times where just nipped up and forgotten.
Perhaps the easiest way of working the tool loose in the MT2 or 3 is to slacken drawbar off or remove and take a cut. Lateral forces MT are not very good at which will eventually dislodge and drop out. Vibration works as well.
ukazak:
Thank you all,
Well, I run the mill all day, today without the drawbar attached.. hoping to see if it is going to fall off like a lose tooth or not. So far it is holding and no signs of anything... Not knowing what to expect realy,. drawbar by my side to remind me, that stubborn chuck might fall any unexpected time and redy to hit the panic button.
Swarfing:
Not sure if this would help or many approve but i had a chuck arbor stuck on a pillar drill with a hollow through to the top. It was given to me by a neighbor who complained it had never run true so never used it. He had owned it for 10 years and had been sat in a shed. To free it at the advise of a friend i poured vinegar down it and left it over night. In the morning there was a pool of brown liquid and a tiny tap it fell out. The problem was what looked like a small amount of swarf had been introduced at the factory. A bit of wire wool and it was as good as new. In my case i had nothing to loose as it cost me nothing other than vinegar.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version