Gallery, Projects and General > Oooops!

Stuck Collet Chuck Arbor

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b4dyc:
Firstly, a hello to all  :)

I have a similar looking mill to you (it has a M12 drawbar though)
The way I have to remove my collet is to undo the draw bar while stopping the spindle rotating in the quill it then presses the collet out. It does this because of the way its designed with a cap that fits on the end of the quill underneath the black plastic cap at the top. Its a way to remove them without hammering the draw bar.
 Always takes a good bit of undoing and often hear the little clink as it frees itself.
This is my millhttp://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/MT3_Spindle.html#a29

Not saying yours is the same but hope it helps you out!

Andy

Jonny:
Thanks Phil for the sketch, that will do the job no stress on bearings, with you now.
Its only ER stuff though, most of us will not use.

Andy I have heard and seen similar arrangents but limits its usefullness. ie dont want drawbar in with a drill or the need to swap drawbar over to different thread.
Easy to make, just a U shaped bracket close fit to top of hex drawbar. Perhaps a swing out jobby aiding easy removal and was thinking this way fro pneumatic jobby.

Cant beat the hammer :coffee:

Fergus OMore:

--- Quote from: Jonny on March 10, 2012, 03:37:13 PM ---c'ant beat the hammer :coffee:

--- End quote ---

What is missing in the discussion is the 'bloody ignorance' bit.

The difference between the areas of the ends of 8mm and 10mm draw bars is 50 sq.mm whereas the larger is half as much again at 78sq.mm.

Pi R squared- nothing more :loco:

If, as I suggested, the maximum diameter is used the area and the force which can be safely used is considerably increased.

I don't know what that available area is- but it is worth sitting with a pocket calculator and working the thing out.
It's a lot cheaper and quicker to do than to ruin both the spindle and the chuck body.  The cost of  a bit of round is a fraction of the potential damage. What has to be worked out is the bend in what are two thin draw rods when a thicker one is far more suitable.

Engineering is not merely the ability to chew a bit of metal to a different size-- and photograph it- and get applause. It needs a modicum of school arithmetic. :hammer:

lordedmond:
the word tapping is causing the problem  get the tension on as above then ( I use a two pound copper face hammer) and give it a swift belt no tip tapping it will need a high quick impact . when not if you get it out make sure you clean the male and female parts completely and always fiit dry with only just a nip up on the draw bar not much more that 1/4 turn from the slack taken up

Stuart

Fergus OMore:
The deed is done but  the problem is age old. It dates back to the time of Nelson when the British Admiralty insisted on huge heads on bolts because the British sailors used too much muscle- and twisted the heads off.

We've now got to undo a problem which should never have arisen. All that a draw bar has to do is to just stop a mating pair of tapers from slipping under load. :bang: :bang: :bang:

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