Another modification if you built or are building this clock.
There is clearly an issue with only one impulse per minue, it is certainly asking for a lot! When that deep tooth comes around and the back pawl drops into it, it needs an extra bit of energy to pull it out of this tooth and you are already running low in momentum! Consequently, my clock has stopped a hand full of times since I last posted in Feb. I`m not necessarly dissapointed by this since I`ve spoken to a number of people who have built the clock with exactly the same issues or can`t get theirs running!
I wanted to modifiy the clock so that the backpawl didn`t have to drop the full depth of the deep tooth when it came around. I consequently modified the bent wire backpawl:
... into a paddle. I took a piece of wire and simply glued a small 3mm x 2mm thin acrylic rectangle to the end. This means that the paddle still locks the count tooth and does its job, but doesn`t have to drop all the way into the deep tooth. Bad pictures, but the best I can get as I don`t want to dismantle it just yet for photos:
The above pictures show the deep tooth locked up against the new back pawl paddle and how the fact that the tooth is deeper doesn`t effect the drop of the paddle.
I did this modification a couple of weeks ago as I wanted to truely get this clock as best I can before I start a new project shortly. So far, it has been running very well.
Just another note: I couldn`t imagine building this clock without mounting the backstop on an arm as shown in all my photos. Wilding mounts the backstop directly on the count wheel bridge! Mounting it on an arm gives a better angle for the backstop and also allows a second method of adjustment! Also to mention that the large screw washer and nut coming out of the back of the backpawl is a counterweight, also necessary to make the clock run!
I hope this post helps someone if you try this build or are struggling to get it to run.
Chris
