Jan Ridders Otto 4 stroke build

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sorveltaja:
Nice progress, dbvandy.

--- Quote from: dbvandy on February 16, 2011, 09:38:50 PM ---Unlike Jan, I like to rev my engine until right before parts start flying off.

--- End quote ---

Be warned, as that kind of engine isn't supposed to be fire-breathing beast. Even at 3000-4000 rpm, the engine may sound and look a lot more dangerous, than commercial, hi-tech engines at 10000 rpm.

Anyways, if you are going to rev it to the max, wear some bullet-proof jacket .

If I may suggest, try first some traditional solution for ignition. For example, motorcycle or automotive coil, and breaker points. Simpler the better. That way you can get reliable spark, and test the engine. When you get the engine to run smoothly, then you could test other ignition options.

dbvandy:
Both valves are done now and ready to be pressed into the head... I'm quite pleased with how they turned out, great design, Jan.... (though I did alter them a bit just to make them mine and help it breath easier....)

I turned the valve between centers with a little extra nub on the head side that will be cut off. I have no idea what type of steel it is, it was shiny and came from some old printer. I turned the stem to be .0005 smaller than the bore in the guide. the second guide was a bit tighter after drilling, so I will turn the second valve down to match the second guide.

I precut the nub when it was still between centers, then chucked it up close very lightly and faced the head to size.

Valve parts all turned are ready to be assembled. I used some e-clips I had in a kit. Springs are pre-made. I wound the ones for the Webster... done that... Ford does not wind their springs either... Notice that I cut a little relief into the stem where it will be out of the guide. This will give a little more room for the engine to breath without effecting strength.

Valve and guide assembled. I will seat the valves with valve grinding compound after they are mounted in the head and stable. There just enough play to allow the valve to seat after every cycle and the springs feel about right, not too stiff, not too soft.

Bogstandard:
I have to admit, I have followed Jan's designs for a long time now and have come to the conclusion that not only are they very innovative, but by taking a little time over the quality of build, you usually end up with a nice running engine that looks really great when in operation.

He takes difficult designs and redesigns them so that almost anyone is able to get a running example.

I'm sure that by the care and attention you are paying to the build, you too will soon have one running.

Bogs

NickG:
They look great Doug, the valves / seats seem to be a stumbling block for some people (or maybe that's just people that don't listen to advice of experienced people!)

Did you make the springs yourself or find some suitable ones?

Agree with Bogs, I've followed quite a few of Jan's builds and can always see where he's coming from. This one seems to be a steady runner, think he's only really having trouble with the last couple where he's trying to be really innovative. I must admit, I am tempted to do at least one of his engines as a starting point in i.c. - just not sure which one! Is the 2 stroke a cop out?!

Nick

MikeA:
Hello Doug,

You're really cooking on this build - looking great!

Two questions; you said you converted 'some' of the measurements to imperial from metric - any specific advise on doing this?

Assume you turned the valves between centers, hence the little extra pad that was subsequently parted off - is that correct?

I'm likely going to use this thread as an instruction manual if I build the Otto.

Thanks
Mike

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