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| Jan Ridders Otto 4 stroke build |
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| dbvandy:
--- Quote from: MikeA on February 18, 2011, 05:40:24 AM ---Two questions; you said you converted 'some' of the measurements to imperial from metric - any specific advise on doing this? Assume you turned the valves between centers, hence the little extra pad that was subsequently parted off - is that correct? --- End quote --- I only have fractional drills, so some of the measurements will be converted over... most are pretty close, but it will not effect the operation in the slightest. Also, all the bar stock and plate are in fractional measurements over here on the other side of the pond so it is tough to get a 10mm plate, but easy to get .375, etc... but I left the length of the valves 42mm and turned it using metric, but still do not have a good feel on the fly for close tolerances in metric (.002 clearance is what in metric, etc...) so I bump my digital DRO and calipers back and forth. I did turn it between centers and then parted it with a hacksaw (I know, I know... I am very careful and go slow). The valves are MASSIVE in comparison to the Webster valves. One of the guide bores must have sucked through a chip when drilling it and was about .005 larger bore, so I just turned the valve stem to match (It's not like I could go down to Auto Zone to buy a replacement anyway...) --- Quote from: NickG on February 18, 2011, 04:20:12 AM ---They look great Doug, the valves / seats seem to be a stumbling block for some people (or maybe that's just people that don't listen to advice of experienced people!) Did you make the springs yourself or find some suitable ones? Agree with Bogs, I've followed quite a few of Jan's builds and can always see where he's coming from. This one seems to be a steady runner, think he's only really having trouble with the last couple where he's trying to be really innovative. I must admit, I am tempted to do at least one of his engines as a starting point in i.c. - just not sure which one! Is the 2 stroke a cop out?! Nick --- End quote --- I look at it like this: if it makes fumes and you learned along the way and you had some fun and maybe had to buy a new tool or two... then it is never a cop out. The valves are really easy to build, actually and only take a hour or so to knock out. The key is to keep the compound locked at 45 for all 4 surfaces, watch your tolerances and turn the guides and valve seats at the same time on the same setup. If you try to fix something later, you better just toss it and make another.... The springs are out of a kit of springs... I made them for the Webster from music wire... done that... and if I did not have the right ones I would have again... It was a bonus to have them pre-made... Jan's designs are just like he describes them. Jewelery. The plans are well laid out and easy to follow and leave some room to personalize without sacrificing functionality. Some I just don't understand, like his split cylinder engine...I just don't get it... makes not logical sense to me... but still super cool and is in the queue to be built... Thanks for the kind words... will be working on the base plates and uprights today... might just start looking like an engine soon... Doug |
| dbvandy:
Today was connecting rod and uprights day.... Wish I had a bigger band saw..... and a mill.... I blued up the connecting rod and cut it out with my band saw... the blade was a fine tooth and cut reeeaaalllyyyy slowly. I trued it up with my small belt sander and drilled out the holes. The bearing for the crank fits an old RC car drive line that I raced 15 years ago... nice to keep those old parts laying around, you never know. I needed some cam shaft bearings... found some... I blued and marked up the first upright. I will match the other two to this one so that they are uniform. I cut the upright out with an angle grinder and the roughed it to pretty damn close with the 4.5 inch hand grinder. The band saw was not up to it with the blade that was in it. Time for a trip to home depot for another... Then I got it really close with my 1x24 inch belt sander table. It is just cosmetics now, so I will wait until I start cleaning it up to get it perfect and polished. Two uprights cut... Starting to look like a motor... yea... Bearing holes to be drilled tomorrow... More to come... Doug |
| saw:
Looking fantastic. :bow: :bow: :bow: |
| madjackghengis:
Hi Doug, I'm following this one closely, just to watch what you do with conversions, as I will be doing very much the same very soon. It's looking good so far, moving right along and getting to the good parts. :nrocks: jack |
| dbvandy:
--- Quote from: madjackghengis on February 19, 2011, 10:07:12 AM ---Hi Doug, I'm following this one closely, just to watch what you do with conversions, as I will be doing very much the same very soon. --- End quote --- Jack, the only real conversions I am doing is when it come to drill sizes. The overall dimensions are super easy in metric so I am leaving them alone. New band saw blade from Home Depot cuts like a hot knife... should go buy more... I received my 22mm drill bit in the mail so I was able to drill the bearing holes. I pre-drilled them with my unibit (love that thing) and then opened them up to 22 mm to match my high dollar skate bearings. The 8mm shaft came from an ink jet old printer that I had laying around just waiting to become part of the Otto. After getting the bearings in, I pinned the uprights together with a part of the shaft and some tubing. Blacked them up and hit them with my belt sander to even them up to perfection. Tomorrow (or later tonight maybe), I will start on laying out the base plates. Not quite sure how I am going to countersink the cylinder 5mm into the base plate (I do not have a rotary table... yet...) wish I had seen that earlier, I would have made the cylinder to mount flush and have a 5mm lip that is 2mm bigger than the bore to slide into a hole in the plate... More to come... Doug |
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