Jan Ridders Otto 4 stroke build

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dbvandy:
I started the cylinder about 2 weeks ago... then broke the teeth on the transmission and had to order new bullet proof metal ones...

I am a private computer trainer and contractor, so I work on the engines when business is slow, which it always is in December and January... now that it is picking up, I will have to work at a more steady pace... (and still keep the little lady happy).

Jan is a SUPER nice guy! His email is jan.ridders@gmail.com, website http://heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu/index.htm. Just tell him what model of his you want to do and he will send off the plans to you. EVERYTHING is metric (great for most of you, but my American brain does not work that way) so I spend a lot of time switching back and forth... the model will be a mixture of both but will be just as shiny.

The fins will clear by about 1/8 of an inch on each side... I figure I can always put a flat on the sides if needed for clearance.

The CDI I am looking at will run on 6v, so a few AA's or a 6v power block should do it just fine. I might stay with the weedeater coil, but you have to have such high idle RPM (~1000) for a strong spark I think I might want to run the OTTO a bit slower. The CDI will do that and can all be hidden under the case. The really rewarding thing about designing on the fly is that if what you do does not work, you can try something else. Anyone can screw parts together from a kit of pre-machined parts and have a perfectly running engine, I prefer to re-purpose and adapt what I have laying around the shop.

Jan's piezo ignition uses a grill lighter that is not available in the states and I think the life span might be questionable. He sent me the pics of his design on the Atkinson engine and I think it would work but only at low RPM. Unlike Jan, I like to rev my engine until right before parts start flying off.

I have also been looking into using a hand held tazer for an ignition source... They put out a couple of million volts from a 9v battery and should be enough to drive a plug. Timing should be as easy as using a cherry switch to turn it on an off. I think I will order one off ebay tonight for 8 bucks and see if it is feasible.

Thanks for the kind words... more to come.

dbvandy:
I worked a little on the engine on Tuesday and figured out how I am going to do the valves.

I'm using some 12L14 hex turned down to whatever drill I had that was close to 10mm for a press fit into the head.

12L14 has very high lead content and should self lubricate as well as be very strong and wear well. It turns like butter as well...

I have turned one and will work on the second and the two valves tomorrow. The key to getting a good seat is to set your compound up to 45 degrees and do not move it until all 4 parts are turned. You then have to center drill the guide and turn the seat in the same setup, then cut it off.

More to come...

Doug

NickG:
Didn't know you could buy tazers on ebay!

madjackghengis:
Hi Doug, thanks for putting in Jan Ridder's contact info, if you are looking for a CDI you can build, there's one available on http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_110499/article.html, which would give you the option of having a generator coil or battery, which ever you choose, and could be stand alone. I have one of those types on a small engine for a garden tiller, a very tiny tiller. Just a thought. I think I'm going to try Jan's use of the pietzo just because I've long wanted to. everything seems to be coming together there, and she ought to be running soon. Very nicely done. :nrocks: cheers, jack

saw:
Looking good. :D

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