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| building a new flame sucker |
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| NickG:
More nice work madjack, again, great step by step with great pics! I'd agree with Olli that you need a flame big enough to completely cover the port but also, if the port is too large, I guess the velocity at which it draws gas in could be too slow - but that's relative to the bore. 1/2" sounds big to me but what is the bore again? Don't worry about posting updates, look after yourself first and foremost. :thumbup: Nick |
| cidrontmg:
--- Quote from: madjackghengis on December 28, 2010, 07:59:08 AM ---snip Have you been to bettigue.blogspot.com? That gentleman is a whiz with tiny flame suckers and Stirlings, and has quite a few on u-tube, real fine looking machines, and runners. snip --- End quote --- Yes, that´s the site of Mr. Günter Bettinger. He is/was a professional fine mechanic and machine building technician (the German terms do not translate too well). Now in a wheelchair, and a pensioner. And does he ever build small Stirling (and other) engines! Another very small Stirling at http://www.pahmeyer.homepage.t-online.de (and many other nice ones) There are 4 "larger" engines in glass cases, but look at the lower left corner... And one more, at http://www.stirlingparadise.de/coll_schager/scha_daum_99.jpg Some Germans like their Stirlings small. :wave: |
| madjackghengis:
Hello all, and thanks again for more threads, Olli, and for comments, Nick, I sort of got hooked on this line of engines for a bit, and the designs of Herr Bettigue are fantastic, hardly believable, except they run, and very well. Thanks for the new sites to look up, too. I got a bit more done, and it's looking more like an engine, and less like a pile of parts, here's the latest changes: I had that piece of stainless, and it was perfect looking, but too thick, so I faced it down to .250, and bored the .625 center hole, tapered, to give a "leading edge" on the valve side close to sharp, for thermal efficiency. finished in the lathe, ready for the head bolt holes setting up on parallels, with an extra set to ensure the drill will clear the main ones. Having center drilled the bolt circle, drilling clearance size holes for the #4-40 head bolts using a 3/16ths in milling cutter to counter bore for the allen heads roughed out, ready for deburring and then polishing the valve side, with counter bores and somewhat polished, I'll finish polishing it when it is ready for assembling the valve the cylinder side of the head, the finish is finer than the photo shows I had a mount base for a "motor-generator" out of an aircraft radio system, which turned 28 volts into three phase 400 cycle 115, the motor-generator was burned out, but the mount seemed interesting, so I cleared out all the "spare parts", and mounted it in the mill, drilled clearance holes for head bolts, a .750 center hole to match the bore of the cylinder, and set up the cut off saw, before I realised I didn't take any pictures of those operations. This is anodized aluminum 6061 T-6 and work hardened from the forming in its original purpose. The head side, after deburring the cylinder side, with ears for mounting in the eventual frame trying the head on, through the mount, and to the cylinder another view of the head end a side view of the cylinder with mount and head attached the cylinder assembly with the crank support attached a side perspective of the assembly a view with the crank mocked up in place, and blocked up in its eventual working position The same thing, but with a view of the head, where the flame will impinge. That's about it for now, I've been patiently waiting to get to where I could finish the crank, and had to have all the other parts in place, to be sure it would be right, so today I get to set up the crank, and maybe get it completed. Ta ta for now, thanks for watching and helping. :smart: :coffee: mad jack |
| NickG:
Definitely starting to look engine-like now madjack, how did you work out where to drill the holes for the bolt circle? or have I missed that? Nick |
| madjackghengis:
Hi all, and sorry Nick, I managed to lock my ram chip and took a bit to figure out why the camera wasn't working. I used my mill's DRO and used the same PCD figures from the drilling and tapping of the head bolt holes, after location on the center of the recycled motor mount, then I used a 3/4 in end mill to make a matching center hole, matching up with the cylinder bore. After that came the cutting off which is shown. I did get some done yesterday, finally getting to really work on the crank and the rod, after getting other datum points established, by putting a head on. Turning down the end of the rod to be threaded to take a bearing holder for the ball race I intend to use more turning, going from a quarter inch, down to .164 for a #8-32 thread since the thread isn't critical, I'm using a dieholder and a die The die holder is double ended, taking 3/4 in dies and 5/8 in dies, starting as a piece of inch hex steel, reamed half an in, and with a fuel pump pushrod from a Chevy engine, which happens to be a ground and polished half inch of good tool steel, to guide the die holder, threads are reasonably straight. cutting the threads with brown cutting oil, turning the chuck by hand, and holding the die holder Another view, putting on more threads, room for a lock nut Cleaning up the first thread, you can't see it, but there is a center in the end of the rod and threads not enough room in the crank for a regular nut, I found a #6 nut that was extra wide, and chucked it drilling the nut out to tap size for #8-32 tapping out the nut, plenty of room, good solid walls With a piece of scrap bronze already on size, with a hole, opening it up with a 9/16ths end mill, with a piece of packing in one jaw to eccentric the center hole for more meat for the rod to thread into. the end mill is taking the meat out, saving some boring if you look careful, you can see the scribed line on the side showing, opposite the packed jaw, which I used to center the work in the mill. The big end piece, forgot to take pictures of boring and facing, it was then put in the mill vise with the scribed line I made opposite the packing in the jaw, dead center on top, a small flat milled, and then drilled and tapped, deburred at the bench. another view of the rod end the rod end with bearing fitted, next to the completed rod with all that figured out, I had to turn down the rod to clear the cylinder, with a 3/4 in bore, and an inch and a half stroke, I thought I'd loosen the set screws holding my top slide, center my cross slide on where the rod interferes with the cylinder, and swing the top slide side to side to form a radial size reduction. After cutting as deep as I could without striking the chuck, I found it wasn't deep enough, and had to resort to more common methods using a tangential tool, I cut most of it down, but didn't like the abrupt corners at each end I centered the machined small end in a four jaw, put a live center in the tail stock, and went to work with a half in tool with a nice radius on the end with the radius cutter, I took it slow to avoid chatter, and put a radius on the small end, going over the turned down section by hand numerous times and working toward the threaded end for a nice radius there as well with all the parts assembled, I found I had to turn the rod down a bit more, and finally ended up with a round file, clearancing the two sides of the cylinder with a small round notch, which are in a place the piston doesn't reach. And here's where I left off, with the rod length right and the piston clearing the head by a few thousandths, the rod clearing the cylinder by plenty, and I finally get to put the crank together solid, and start working on a base to support all these engine parts. With the whole assembly sitting on its head on a piece of glossy advertising, I can pull up the crank throws and let go and the piston flips the crank down with a solid feeling and an interesting sound as it hits the air leaked in, about an 1/8th in from the head and feels like great compression. That does it for yesterday, and maybe I can get some more done this day. Thanks for all the comments and watching, I'm hoping to know what it will look like, soon. :lol: mad jack |
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