building a new flame sucker

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Stilldrillin:
"Thanks for all the comments and watching, I'm hoping to know what it will look like, soon".

Jack. Me too!

It is developing nicely. Will look, and perform great! :thumbup:

Nowt much to say. Watching quietly... :wave:

David D

sbwhart:
A great thread Jack very interesting and some great maching methods for us to learn from.

Look forward to the next instalment

Stew

cidrontmg:
"I'm hoping to know what it will look like, soon".
+1 me too... So far it´s looking really good. And rather big also, sitting on top of the advertising. I´m also learning new methods how to do things. Did you glue the bearing in the rod end, or press fit?
:wave:

NickG:
It's looking great to me Jack, Love the big end / con rod idea. :bow:

Nick

madjackghengis:
Hi guys, you all flatter me, and I thought I was learning from all of you! :poke: I wanted to have an old style con rod, like was common in the early steam years, and with "atmospheric engines", built up and interesting looking, not machined from a forging, or billet. The ball bearing is a push fit in the bronze "end" and loctited in with green #609 stud and bearing mount. It is a press fit on a common 1/4 in dowel pin, and the need to modify the #6 nut shows well in the picture, it is wide enough to be sturdy and lock the rod, but small enough in o.d., to clear the crank throws with plenty of room, something the #8 nuts in regular pattern don't, and on top, they don't look right either.
I didn't get a whole lot done yesterday, I had to go out in the first opportunity since the snow, and do some maintenance on the woods, as many trees were damaged by the weight of snow, and more than "owning" the sixty odd acres, I feel like a steward of the forest. I only had to take down one dead tree, to keep it from taking out others if allowed to go down on its own, but it added to my fire wood, and spent a couple hours with a chainsaw overhead, cutting out broken and bent too far branches, so they will come back to life in the spring.
I started out with the big end, digging through my scrap bronze, as it needed some color, and found a piece about .300 thick, round, sides parallel, with a hole in the middle about 3/8ths in dia. I put it in my three jaw, with a piece of eight gauge copper wire under one jaw and ran through the hole with a 9/16ths end mill to take most of the meat out, then bored it right on size for the .625 o.d. of the bearing, and faced both sides down to bring it to .250 width, then put the scribe mark made by eye, opposite the packed jaw, dead top in the milling vise, and drilled and tapped it for #8-32 to match the rod. I then had to work out the exact length of the rod, as the piston was hitting the mount plate, but losing two threads did the trick, and gave me clearance. In the mean time, the UPS truck came by and dropped off a box with some stainless allen bolts, #4-40 and a foot of inch and an eighth cast iron rod.
The idea for the head is to keep it hot, as stainless isn't very conductive, use stainless bolts to hold it on, and conduct the least amount of heat through the ten bolts, and sandwich the mount plate, aluminum, between the head and cylinder, so most of any heat transfered directly through conduction would be absorbed by the aluminum mount plate, and conducted to the eventual frame, keeping the iron cylinder as cool as reasonably possible. The ten bolts through the head, mount plate into the cylinder pull it all up tight enough the mount plate acts as a head gasket, and seals remarkably well, I was planning on paper gaskets, but don't think I need them.

having gotten all the parts fitted dry, the whole of the crank assembly is put together with stud and bearing mount loctite #609, and carefully laid out to bond in line.

In the mean time, I removed the crank standard, clamped it up in the mill vise, and set up a slitting saw to cut it in half, so the whole crank assembly can have the standards assembled around it, since the crank won't come apart to fit it into place.

With a .062 slitting saw some soluable oil for lubrication and cooling, the standard is cut in half and then deburred and cleaned up at the bench.

With the standard cleaned up, the crank and rod assembly setting up, everything is on hold until I can cut the main shaft out from between crank cheeks, and trial assemble, hopefully everything should be fitting well. In the mean time, it's a pile of parts again.

The rod and crank assembly setting, and a view of half the crank standard the two main bearings, and some miscellaneous shafts and tools. As of this morning, the crank assembly seems to have set up well, and I should be able to assemble the main of the engine, and start on either the base and support structure, or on the cam and valving, and the flywheel. I should get a bunch done today, as I did my forest work yesterday, and have plenty of both wood and time. Thanks for watching and for the input. Oh, by the way, with the cylinder o.d. at 1.750, the head 2.000 in dia, and the assembly about five inches long, it will be rather big compared to my last flame sucker, it ought to make some power as well. Ta ta for now, :lol: mad jack

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