building a new flame sucker

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

(1/20) > >>

madjackghengis:
Thanks to someone whose name I won't mention, posting a very tiny fly sized stirling engine on their build log, Nick, and then having to look at the other engines built by Herr Bettigue, and running across some of the most impressive engines I've ever seen, I was inspired to try to build a similar engine to one I found particularly interesting in how it runs. I had a cylinder I'd drilled, reamed, honed, cut fins on, all for the purpose of finding out the quality of the cast iron rod I bought for another project, and was just sitting around, so I decided to use it, and start the build of this engine from something I never intended to use when I made it.
I'm afraid it has been so long since I posted a picture from photo-bucket, I no longer know how to do it. There seems to have been changes made, and I could use a bit of advice to get some pictures in this new log. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :bang: :bang: mad jack

cidrontmg:
Photobucket has changed some, but not very much. Basically what you do is, log in to http://photobucket.com/
Click on "My albums" (to get the pictures where you want them), third menu item. You will land to "(MadJack´s) Album", that is, the root folder of your albums. Scroll down a bit, and on the right side, you will find (in black) "Sub-Albums" (if you have any) and next to it, in blue text, "Create new album". Click on that, and a new pop up window opens that says "Create new album". First line is "Name your new album", there you could put (for instance) "New flame sucker" (or whatever!), next line is "Description", either leave blank, or put something descriptive. It´s only for you, to help you navigate among albums ("albums" is Google-speak, Microsoft uses "folders". Same thing). Next line "Add as an album to:" will make this new album a sub-album(folder) in another album (folder) if you tick the box. I usually don´t. Fourth line is "Privacy Settings:", and it is already ticked as "public". And then click "Create album".
The new album page opens, it´s empty (no pictures loaded yet), click on the 5th (green) menu item "Upload now". Another page opens, there´s a big green button that says "Select photos and videos". In my computer, it´s barely legible. Click that. You get a file selector box, from your own computer, navigate to where the pictures you want to show us are, choose them (many, please...), and click "Open". The upload starts, you can follow the progress, and then the page says "Upload complete!" A bit lower, on the right side, there´s a blue button that says "Save and continue to my album". Click on that. (Don´t forget! You must save your pictures!)
Now you should be seeing the recently upped pictures. Also there´s the new album´s name. Now, hover with the cursor to the top of the image you want to post here. There drops down a menu box. First a blue menu, "Share|Edit|Delete|Move". In case you want to delete the picture, click "Delete", otherwise you won´t much need that menu. But you can move pictures to another album with "Move".
Then there are four rows, "Email & IM" , and a box after that, with a web address. Not interesting.
Next line is "Direct link", and another box with a web address. Not interesting.
Third line is "HTML code", again a box with some HTML code. Not interesting.
But the fourth line is the interesting one, it says "IMG code", and again there´s a box, which starts with
[IMG]http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/*******************. Now, click on that box, and for a second, it says "Copied". And reverts back to the code. Now you have the image code in your clipboard, and you can paste it to wherever it should be in your text. That´s about it.
Like said, many pictures, please!
:wave:

madjackghengis:
Thanks for the very clear instructions Olli, let's see how these go. milling the sides of the little end of the rod to fit in the gudeon block slot
rotating the rod 90 degrees, drilled, and now reaming for the .125 wrist pin.
hand reaming the piston gudeon block to remove burrs.
testing the wrist pin fit through both the gudeon and the rod
a good fit and ready to try in the cylinder
next step, getting an idea of how long the rod must be to clear the cylinder for a long stroke, twice the bore

now to measure, just for estimation purposes

and flipping the rod the other side

now comes the fiddling around with the rod and piston to try to get a proper feel for the path of the rod as the crank turns

Guestimate is the most accurate description of what I did, and I may have to forge the rod in strange shapes to clear, but, since there are no plans, it must end up pretty much as it fits, since I'm trying to avoid drawing or writing anything down and do it all one piece at a time. I don't really know what this will look like in the end, I'm looking forward to seeing it though.
I don't know if "fly tying" is something done anywhere else, and I don't do it myself, but it's a matter of taking a fish hook and tying bits of odds and ends like feathers and such, to make the hook look like a fly. I found the flytying vise on ebay for about three or four dollars, knew it would come in handy for holding things at odd angles and such, particularly wires being soldered, and it worked out well to hold up the rule while I moved the rod back and forth.
the rod of the vise will slide up and down, with a thumb screw, the jaws are closed with a cam and the width of the opening set by turning the threaded sleeve the jaws are in, and you can turn the head with the jaws in any direction.

madjackghengis:
Thanks Olli, I got the day before's work up, and maybe I can work on getting things a bit more organized on the log with yesterday's work. With the rough size of the needed structure for the crank figured, I squared up a piece of aluminum that is about the right size and started in making it look like an engine part. In the four jaw chuck, I started out drilling, step drilling up to seven eighths of an inch, readying it for boring.

now for boring it out.

I bored it out to an inch, to fit the spigot on the cylinder, then counter bored it, leaving 3/16ths of a flange, for cylinder bolts inside, bored it out to 1 and 5/16ths, for crank clearance. From there it goes in the mill to be centered up, and the crank shaft hole found, centered on the width, and just enough down from the top to give clearance for the ball races to fit.

Showing the bottom end, which will go over the cylinder spigot, crank holes on the opposite end.

I've got cylinder room for an 1 and 5/8ths in piston travel in the cylinder, today I get to find out how much room I have for stroke, given where I've placed the crank hole. A longer stroke is more power, but a shorter stroke is more revs, so no matter what it ends up at it will be good enough for me. Lots of metal to remove today.

jim:
i'll be following this thread!

my own "design" gulper is now on the back burner :doh:

i need to have a redesign of it, the bore is just too long :doh: , i ran in to problems of just too much air being moved.

i need to make a far bigger valve opening (didn't scale it up). this thread may just be the kick up the ar5e i need!

good luck!!

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version