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| how do I grind a parting tool |
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| lordedmond:
--- Quote from: dsquire on July 29, 2010, 07:54:44 PM --- --- Quote from: lordedmond on July 19, 2010, 03:37:14 AM ---Just grind the top flat leave the end as is --- End quote --- If you grind from the top surface then you will lower the cutting edge below center and will have problems when parting off. Only grind on the front face. :D :D Cheers :beer: Don --- End quote --- what's that adjusting screw for on top of the holder , I think its for adjusting the tool hight :thumbup: I still say grind the top flat, the bevel on the top is for the blade to seat in the dovetail in the holder its like that so you can use it both ways ( reverse front to back ) Stuart |
| Bernd:
--- Quote from: lordedmond on July 30, 2010, 03:49:31 AM ---what's that adjusting screw for on top of the holder , I think its for adjusting the tool hight :thumbup: --- End quote --- First of all that looks like custom tooling and nothing like what can be bought on the market. It is still necssary to locate the tool on center though. --- Quote ---I still say grind the top flat, the bevel on the top is for the blade to seat in the dovetail in the holder its like that so you can use it both ways ( reverse front to back ) Stuart --- End quote --- Conventional wisdom has it that the tool get's sharpened on the end and not the top. I've always been taught to grind the end and that comes from 30+ years in the tool maching trade. Also found in many maching books. Bernd |
| lordedmond:
--- Quote from: Bernd on July 30, 2010, 01:42:35 PM --- --- Quote from: lordedmond on July 30, 2010, 03:49:31 AM ---what's that adjusting screw for on top of the holder , I think its for adjusting the tool hight :thumbup: --- End quote --- First of all that looks like custom tooling and nothing like what can be bought on the market. It is still necssary to locate the tool on center though. --- Quote ---I still say grind the top flat, the bevel on the top is for the blade to seat in the dovetail in the holder its like that so you can use it both ways ( reverse front to back ) Stuart --- End quote --- Conventional wisdom has it that the tool get's sharpened on the end and not the top. I've always been taught to grind the end and that comes from 30+ years in the tool maching trade. Also found in many maching books. Bernd --- End quote --- The tool post in question is a Myford Dickson QTP that is the very one I use they are sold as a set that includes the aforementioned plating blade holder the top of the blade is ground to fit the dovetails in the holder, if left would throw the chip out to the sides thus jamming the blade , if you want to have a vee in the top it should be the other way as a letter V . Yes I agree normally yo would grind on the end but as bought that blade will not work very well I use a rear TP with an iscar insert parting tool blade works very well , also I do use the normal HSS blade for brass flat topped I would suggest as a trial the OP try it as is sharpened on the front and the grind a small flat on the top say 1/16 long so not to waste the blade and repot back as to which one works best |
| Ned Ludd:
Rather than grind the top, if you have a carbide end mill, mill the top. By milling you are more likely to machine the surface you want to be flat and square. Works for me! Ned PS yes you can mill HSS. |
| j45on:
Thanks for all the tips guys I think I will have to grind the front face as it is quite rough but should it be square or at a slight angle ? Also the top I was confused about my other parting tool which is basically a smaller version has a flat top then I found this http://www.the-alchemist.com/partingtool.html which was all I could find on grinding parting tools which confused me even more :scratch: --- Quote from: Bernd on July 30, 2010, 01:42:35 PM ---First of all that looks like custom tooling and nothing like what can be bought on the market. It is still necssary to locate the tool on center though. --- End quote --- not sure what you mean by custom this is the set it came from which is made by soba http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-quick-change-lathe-tooling-prod21295/ I only paid £70 for it though as it was a customer return so I took a gamble on being able to make it fit my lathe |
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