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| how do I grind a parting tool |
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| sbwhart:
Paul I agree with your comment about horsepower and cutting tools, if you look closely at the cutting edge of tipped tools they are very blunt, this isn't an issue with a machine with plenty of power, they just knock the stuff off, as an old work friend (long gone) use to say "if you put a clog nail in it will cut" small home machine just haven't got that power thats why I think you can struggle sometimes with tips, I've got a good cheap supply of tips but in my home shop with its small cheap Chines machinery, I find myself using HSS more and more, with a good sharp HSS tool I find it easier to hit and keep size. With a tip I think what happens is the inherent flex in the machine holds the tool off, you put a bit more cut on and bingo the tool bites you get that cut plus a bit from the previous cut and your undersize, with a good sharp HSS you don't get that effect so much. Any way thats just my take on it. Stew |
| Davo J:
I couldn't agree more with what Stew said above. HSS will work when insert tooling wont on smaller low horse power lathes. I only turn to insert tooling on hard stuff that HSS wont touch, even though I have a 2hp 12x36. HSS is also a lot cheaper and can be ground to any shape in minutes, instead of having to order a specie insert which could take weeks to come in and cost an arm and a leg. Dave |
| jim:
the top of the blade sould be ground. this will give the blade clearance on the sides (the blade is thicker at the top). |
| Boucher:
You can also grind a round chipbreaker with a dremel tool. If done properly it will supply the positive rake to roll up small tight coils that eject nicely. A good old fashioned cutting oil helps immensley when parting off. Take a look here: http://www.cnccookbook.com/MTLathePartingCutoff.htm |
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