how do I grind a parting tool

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Davo J:
I think this link will help you out with angles etc.
http://www.cutterod.com/cutter_zone/General/How_To_Grind_Lathe_Tools.pdf

I have also had a Dickson style tool post like yours only mine is a little larger for my 12 x 36 lathe.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=L295
I bought mine from over here in Aus and they have them up to a body size of 175mm square x 120mm height :bugeye:
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=L298

I have never tried them but I see a lot of people in the US argue over the piston and the wedge style Aloris tool post. Not sure if there any better but in the 6 years I have had my Dickson style, I could not be more happier with it, they are a good easy to clean tool post.

Dave

Bernd:
Lordedmond,

Ah yes I now see that inverted "V" section and understan why you need to grind the top. Never seen a tool like that or a holder like that. I've always had the striaght top cut off tools.

That tool holder looked custom made, again since I never knew one like that was/is available for cutoff tool's.

Looks like I just got educated about some tooling. :thumbup:

Bernd

fatal-exception:
The angle on the end looks OK, but definitely you will have to grind the top to get rid of the chamfer. I'm not sure why, but every parting tool I've ever bought here is the same, they all have that chamfer on the top. Maybe it's to let you know that it isn't ready for cutting, that you will have to grind it parallel to the axis of cutting?

Paul

sbwhart:
Hi Guys

I've one of those Dickinson tool posts and parting tools, I've found it very good as some of you have said the chamfer on the top is for gripping the top needs grinding.

Here's a collection of my parting tools has you can see they have done some work, I find the two HSS tools on the left good for most work but sometimes I run up against a bit of tough steel then I use the tip tool.

As you can see all three have a hooked top and front clearance.

Just one safety tip the back of the blade sticks out and is as sharp as hell I wrap the end with gaffer/jumbo tape to avoid bad cuts.

Hope this helps

Stew

SKIPRAT:
Hi All

I will agreee with Stew i usually grind a top rake of about 7 degrees with front clearance and mine look just like Stew's as a tool on a small lathe cannot cut very well without any top rake there is not enough horsepower available available to cut metal without a positive top rake as the tool uses a shear action to cut working very much like a chisel, larger production machines with lots of horsepower can use tools with zero or negative top rake.

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