| Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs |
| Myford Taper Turning Atahment AGIAN |
| << < (10/15) > >> |
| Rob.Wilson:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on December 19, 2012, 06:14:50 AM --- Any chance for a shot outline for your process...temperature/color hold time, cooling time and "aging". Also painting/finishing is bit of mystery to me. Would normal car painting (rust damage fixing and coverup) procedure work? Pekka --- End quote --- Hi Pekka No problem , this is how I go about stress relieving the job , remember my parts are not going to get fitted to the space shuttle ,so everything is done with the mark one eyeball and rule of thumb . First off SLOWLY and EVENLY heat the parts up to about 750 C a blood red colour (in natural light) then soak at heat for One hour per inch of thickness , So if part is an inch thick =1 hour , 1/4 of an inch thick =15 minutes , get the idea , gets a bit more technical when you have thick thin sections in the same part , But for home shop use just go for working the time out on the thickest part , Then allow to cool SLOWLY , I just shut the furnace off ,block the blast hole and close the chimney . My furnace is well insulated and it takes a good 24 hours to cool down enough to handle the part ,still warm to the touch. works for me . Paint ,yes just car paint , the TTA was actually painted with 2K. --- Quote from: NeoTech on December 19, 2012, 10:46:10 AM ---Amazing handywork.. I wish i could fit one of those on my optimum lathe. =) --- End quote --- Hi Neo ,,, Why not ? There are other types of TTA that fit to the saddle of the lathe if there is no way of attaching it to the bed . My CUB lathe has that type I can take a few photos of it you would like. --- Quote from: Meldonmech on December 19, 2012, 04:10:36 PM ---Hi Rob, Nice design features, and a great finish, well done. Have already a mental picture of my next project, A TTA for the ML10. Need a new welder though, mine is only 65 amp Arc. What size welder would you recommend, and is yours a Mig Welder? I can see some interesting cast parts I intend to make, so am enthusiatic. David --- End quote --- Hi David The design is not mine ,I blatantly copied a Myford one LOL , I use MIG ,TIG and Arc , the MIG witch I used on the TTA is 220 amp . What you need to do is decide on how big and how thick your likely to weld then go from there . A cast ally bracket for the TTA would be just the job :poke: lets no if you need photos or drawings (I think I still have drawings) Cheers Rob |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: RobWilson on December 20, 2012, 12:54:51 PM ---Hi Pekka No problem , this is how I go about stress relieving the job.... Cheers Rob --- End quote --- Thank you very much. I'll arm mysef with this information, make some parts a little oversize and bring them to my friends lab oven for a "quick spin". Pekka |
| Meldonmech:
Hi Rob, Thanks for the info. Drawings of the bracket and any other parts would save me a lot of time, could then get on with making the patterns. May have to make a new flask, or cast the bracket in two pieces. I have only cast a litre of 'ally' in one pour up to now. Could always follow the Double Boost and give the furnace a new midriff. Cheers David |
| ilia-45:
Bravo :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: |
| outlawspeeder:
Rob, Thanks for the reply back from my Dec 20th post. I bet you thought this thread was done. Two years after you started, people are still interested in great workmanship. Thanks for the info on the bluing. It looks good even under the plastic angle gauge,yes i saw that. I’ll try bluing this weekend on some scrap. It will help to keep the shop warm. I have gathered some of the parts needed to build my taper for Grizzly G9249, but still working on some of the details. Again, it is a piece of art. You have set the bar high and I hope to a rise to this level of workmanship. To Rob and anyone willing to give advice. Here are some odd ball questions: The back side of my lathe is rough cast. Not a flat mount. What do I do? Put the lathe on the mill??? The bed weights more then I want to lift. Mount the plate, true it (grind as needed) and leave it there? Do four mount studs with standoff plates… I have seen a lot of plans with a dead man bar. Rob, your design works for only that part of the lathe, the first 12-18 inches? Step in and tell me if my thoughts are wrong. Is a dead man design really needed? I don’t do a lot of work out that far to the right and normal I can flip the work… Thoughts? Looking for input is it needed? When you are not using your TTA, do you just leave it loose, remove upper parts, remove all of it and “return it to the museum” for display? On Rob’s Slider: He hardened it, the wedge, missing from all photos and text, does it get hardened? I can see were you may have blued it in one shot. Is it BSM, or something soft? Well this got long. I am adding in some links (hope not to offend) of manuals, sites, to look at before you build. Some of these are good, some are “here is a thought” and some are, well “you build with what you got to build with”. So for those that want to look at other plans thoughts: http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/9_taper_Install.pdf http://www.strippingknives.com/tools/taper.htm http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Taper.html http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f28/lathe-taper-attachment-6404/ Cross slide modifications required thoughts http://pics.woodstockint.com/manuals/m1022_m.pdf http://cdn1.grizzly.com/manuals/h0775_m.pdf http://content.wmhtoolgroup.com/manuals/man_321442.pdf Chuck offsets (the what was I thinking thought) http://www.vintageprojects.com/machine-shop/offsettaperturning.pdf Last place but an “A” for hitting up the local hardware store to buy pipe: |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |