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| Rob.Wilson:
HI All Here we go agian,, A good friend has setup a site for me to store my photos and with the help of another who had saved a few of my photos that he sent back to me and the few i have left ,i will try agian . I started with the main bracket for the TTA ,,this is a welded construction ,i would normally do a casting for something like this, but for quickness i decided to just weld it up ,and i am pleased i did,,, as i had copyed a TTA for an ML7 and i have a S7 so the bracket has to be wider ,as the S7 has a longer cross slide . so i just had to weld up an exstention piece and stick it on.would have been a differant story if i had made a casting :doh: The bracket part befor welding showing weld prep welded up then the bracket was heated up in the furnace to stress reife it the i machined it up square an at this point i tried it against the lathe and relised my mistake ,,to short :doh: so i welded up an exstention piece and welded that to the bracket Regards Rob |
| Rob.Wilson:
Next a made the guide,from a lenght of BMS bar that was also stress relived ,, i stress relive nearly all parts i make from BMS, as due to the cold rolling prosses there is allot of stress built up in the bar,, and if you machine more off one side than the other you remove the tention from that side and the stress thats left in the other side will pull the part bow shaped ,in the direction of the side with more material left on it,which is a real pian when you may have spent many hours machining up a part , say like a model engine crankshaft from solid , if you have a part the may bend due to this affect and un able to stress relive the part ,like a crankshaft ,, i would use HOT ROLLED BAR for the part,hope this may save some one waisted time and materals,,as it has caught me out a few times . the guide was then set up on the R/T using a 2mt plug to locate it , using the plug to set the mill spindle on the same axis as the R/T , locking the y axis and zero in the dial on the x axis , Do not move Y axis,, now with the R/T set to zero , this needs to be set to zero as the last operation is to engrave the scale,, place the guide bar on the plug , and clamp loosely ,now the guide needs to be clocked in along its lenght so its now parralel with the X axis when the DTI reads zero at both ends lock the guide to the R/T Regards Rob |
| dsquire:
Rob Thanks for redoing this article on the Myford Taper Turning Attachment. I am sure that it will be well received and appreciated by many. Good work. :ddb: :ddb: Cheers :beer: Don |
| Bernd:
Rob, Thank you very much for reposting. Glad some people had the forsight to save some of your pics. Wish I had. One reason I'm so iterested in the thread is I want to add one to a Grizzly lathe I've started to modify. I have welding equipment to do the same. Don't want to panic you, but one pic didn't show up. There's a little red x in the box. Check to make sure that you typed in the right wording. No biggie, if you need help just yell somebody will help. Regards, Bernd |
| Rob.Wilson:
Thanks Don and Bernd Bernd i have no idea why that photo will not show :scratch: i am seeking help on it thanks ,,, If you or anyone is interested i could do drawings for the TTA which could be adapted for most lathes . With the guide now set up on the R/T the ends were milled and slots cut the next job was to cut the degree scale ,this was done with an old endmill ground up to a 30 deg point ,just like a lathe threading tool ,making sure the piont was in the center of the tool, with the mill spindel locked , a 0.3mm cut put on and the mill table was advanced , using the R/T dial to get the correct spaces then cleaned up with some 400 wet and dry Regards Rob |
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