Author Topic: Quornish (Read 30869 times)

shipto · « **on:** January 03, 2025, 12:52:11 PM »

I have held off posting any details of this project because I wasn't sure it would work but now I have got this far I am a little more confident so first pic of my Quornish.
I cheated a bit by buying the U2 cutter grinder attachment rather than make the bits myself.

shipto · « **Reply #1 on:** January 31, 2025, 01:14:29 PM »

Little bit of progress I have made the micrometer thimble with a M10x1 thread, needs marking up but that requires yet another project so it will have to do for now.
Not exactly sure about my idea for the rocker arm but its cooling down in the vice right now so I will clean it up tomorrow and see how it looks.

shipto · « **Reply #2 on:** February 02, 2025, 10:44:48 AM »

I'm thinking its not too bad not as pleasing to the eye as the cast ones but I cant see it will cause any problems, obviously it still needs the adjusting screw and if I can find a close match for the paint that will make it look better.

shipto · « **Reply #3 on:** February 09, 2025, 10:44:41 AM »

Made wheelhead height nut but I am dithering about how I make the wheelhead collar now. I really need a chuck of steel about 60x50x80 but dont have anything close. The options I have with the available materials are A)Weld some bits together to make a bit I can machine to shape or B)I have a scrapped 70mm shaft at work which I can cut off 80+mm and machine to size with some big rounded chamfers left over. Option B seems the best one to me as the 60mm can be altered to leave less of a chamfer not that it woud effect anything anyway.

shipto · « **Reply #4 on:** February 09, 2025, 11:20:42 AM »

B it is. A little cad work let me work out I can do this part quite easily, a little extra machining I guess but nothing I cant manage.

vtsteam · « **Reply #5 on:** February 14, 2025, 02:11:17 PM »

Quote from: shipto on February 02, 2025, 10:44:48 AM

I'm thinking its not too bad not as pleasing to the eye as the cast ones but I cant see it will cause any problems, obviously it still needs the adjusting screw and if I can find a close match for the paint that will make it look better.

I think it looks just as good fabricated and machined. Looking good in general!

shipto · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2025, 09:00:08 AM »

Getting on with the collar which required a few dubious setups on the lathe (my homemade milling machine is not really man enough for the jobs) I think I am going to take some more material off the back so I can use my slittling saw. As you can see in the second pic I can remove about 8mm.

shipto · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2025, 08:44:28 AM »

I am moving on to the motor and spindle now and if I had planned ahead I could have saved a little work because it can be used pretty much anywhere and I could have used it for making the helical groove on the upright. However I decided I am going to use the motor and spindle (with some mods) from my toolpost milling attachment. For this I am going relatively close to the plans in the quorn book, I have purchased the angular contact bearings and am even copying the labyrinth seal arrangment. I ground a cheap boring bar to make the trepanning tool, I have included an image but it's not brilliant. In the next image you can see why I needed a right angle trepanning tool and the results of it and the final image is just the modified spindle body.

vtsteam · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2025, 01:11:47 PM »

Trying to follow here shipto, but admit I'm not quite sure what photos 2 and 3 are of. Photo 1 is a tool bit for sure. Well 3 looks like a spindle housing, not sure if the trepanning tool was used on the outside top and bottom... guessing so. I imagine the inside was done with a boring bar.

Photo 2 --- is the spinning shaft and blued arm the trepanning tool itself? Does the tool bit go in the threaded hole? Are they being driven by the chuck? What are they working on?

shipto · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2025, 02:10:57 PM »

Quote from: vtsteam on February 22, 2025, 01:11:47 PM

Trying to follow here shipto, but admit I'm not quite sure what photos 2 and 3 are of. Photo 1 is a tool bit for sure. Well 3 looks like a spindle housing, not sure if the trepanning tool was used on the outside top and bottom... guessing so. I imagine the inside was done with a boring bar.

Photo 2 --- is the spinning shaft and blued arm the trepanning tool itself? Does the tool bit go in the threaded hole? Are they being driven by the chuck? What are they working on?

Sorry was part way through posting and my mate turned up for a coffee so lost my thread a bit.

Pic2 is indeed the shaft turning between centres and the blued bit is the drive dog I made to turn it. The trepanning tool was used to cut the recess close to the drive dog and the threaded hole has a 10mm bolt sticking out of the back being pushed around by one of the jaws of the chuck.
Pic3 just shows the modified spindle body which was used in my toolpost milling attachment (different thread).

vtsteam · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2025, 04:16:55 PM »

Oh I get it! So the trepanning tool bit was in the regular lathe toolholder, working end-on. And the blued arm is just a driving dog. Got it!

shipto · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2025, 04:41:05 PM »

Quote from: vtsteam on February 22, 2025, 04:16:55 PM

Oh I get it! So the trepanning tool bit was in the regular lathe toolholder, working end-on. And the blued arm is just a driving dog. Got it!

You got it. Needed the right angled trepanning tool because of the drive dog and the tailstock getting in the way.

shipto · « **Reply #12 on:** March 05, 2025, 12:54:14 PM »

I have most of the bits done for the spindle but have to figure out a few things.
first I have to make a nut with tooling thats too big, I am thinking of grinding down a old tap to make a tool small enough.

Then I have to put a 3mm keyway in the pulley again without the needed tools, This may become a side project.

Lastly I am struggling to work out how these labrynth seals actually stop grease or oil escaping and would love an explanation if anyone has one and on that note the drawing in the quorn book shows a countersunk bolt in the middle of the spindle housing which I assume is for adding oil occasionally as I cant see any other need for it.

vtsteam · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2025, 12:10:10 PM »

Lots of progress, Dwayne.

I kinda wondered about labyrinth seals myself. Tesla had a one way valve that used labyrinths, and then there's the scores we put on small pistons. I imagined that it was kind of like sequential pressure drops by restrictions and expansion passages.

But I found this here just now, that says turbulence is involved, so it's more than just additive pressure drops into expansions:

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29452/using-labyrinth-seals

shipto · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2025, 01:05:06 PM »

Obstacles overcome, spindle together and running totally free.
Next step will be the plates to mount it.

shipto · « **Reply #15 on:** March 09, 2025, 01:12:31 PM »

Quote from: vtsteam on March 07, 2025, 12:10:10 PM

Lots of progress, Dwayne.

I kinda wondered about labyrinth seals myself. Tesla had a one way valve that used labyrinths, and then there's the scores we put on small pistons. I imagined that it was kind of like sequential pressure drops by restrictions and expansion passages.

But I found this here just now, that says turbulence is involved, so it's more than just additive pressure drops into expansions:

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29452/using-labyrinth-seals

That similar to the page I looked at for an explanation, maybe a dim moment but I still dont quite get it. As long as it does the job I guess it doesn't matter.

vtsteam · « **Reply #16 on:** March 09, 2025, 02:39:28 PM »

True, if it works that's what you really need.

I think of eddies in the spaces between as little whirlpools of lubricant. They push back against any pressure to pass. When I used to do whitewater canoeing, you'd see eddies behind rocks which stuck out of the water. If you maneuvered your canoe behind the rock, pointing upstream, it would stay put there with water rushing either side of you. You could sit there and eat lunch if you wanted -- we sometimes did.

When the water passes the rock, there's basically a hole in the flow behind the rock. Water from immediately downstream tries to fill that hole, and to do that it has to flow upstream toward the rock. That's the eddy. It's water that is flowing opposite the main current direction, and that's what keeps you parked against the rock.

So eddies in a labyrinth seal must be doing something similar -- the flanges of the seal are acting like the rock, and behind it in the pocket there must be a counter current pushing against the leakage of fluid. Maybe they put several of these in a row to reduce the leakage to nil.

Well that's about as far as I can imagine it working anyway.

shipto · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2025, 01:17:30 PM »

Quote from: vtsteam on March 09, 2025, 02:39:28 PM

True, if it works that's what you really need.

I think of eddies in the spaces between as little whirlpools of lubricant. They push back against any pressure to pass. When I used to do whitewater canoeing, you'd see eddies behind rocks which stuck out of the water. If you maneuvered your canoe behind the rock, pointing upstream, it would stay put there with water rushing either side of you. You could sit there and eat lunch if you wanted -- we sometimes did.

When the water passes the rock, there's basically a hole in the flow behind the rock. Water from immediately downstream tries to fill that hole, and to do that it has to flow upstream toward the rock. That's the eddy. It's water that is flowing opposite the main current direction, and that's what keeps you parked against the rock.

So eddies in a labyrinth seal must be doing something similar -- the flanges of the seal are acting like the rock, and behind it in the pocket there must be a counter current pushing against the leakage of fluid. Maybe they put several of these in a row to reduce the leakage to nil.

Well that's about as far as I can imagine it working anyway.

Sounds impressive to me even if its wrong.

vtsteam · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2025, 01:41:12 PM »

That's what I like to hear!

shipto · « **Reply #19 on:** March 18, 2025, 02:50:21 PM »

Confession time I made a mistake. When making the two base pieces I welded the upright mounting place on the wrong side of the bar stock which became apparent when I started to line things up. So I had to grind the bits apart and reweld them and I think I have got away with it everything seems to line up still at least.

shipto · « **Reply #20 on:** March 20, 2025, 02:00:16 PM »

More progress, still need to mill all the hole for mounting the motor but its starting to look like it should now.

vtsteam · « **Reply #21 on:** March 20, 2025, 10:48:15 PM »

It sure is, Dwayne!

shipto · « **Reply #22 on:** March 23, 2025, 12:35:48 PM »

Not that you can tell from the picture but it lives.

shipto · « **Reply #23 on:** March 23, 2025, 03:09:13 PM »

Soon after taking the last photo I discovered not only is it alive but its also live

I can only assume that because this motor has been sat in various places in my shop it has picked up some hitch hikers that are allowing the power to the case of the motor I will have to strip it down and clean it all up tomorrow.
It does make me think I need to do something to stop any of the grinding dust collecting in the motor when working.

vtsteam · « **Reply #24 on:** March 23, 2025, 05:10:42 PM »

Happy you have it running, Dwayne!

Sorry to hear about the ground fault, too!

What kind of motor is that? I see you have the same DC voltage controller I used initially on my lathe...

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Author Topic: Quornish (Read 30869 times)