Trying to Quieten the 110KVA Generator

[awemawson]

The plan (when I can escape from Puppy - double cottage change over today so a bit hectic here ) Is to remove the tail stock from my 40" Colchester Master, fit the Fixed steady down the tail stock end, and gripping the collar in the chuck carefully turn off the weld. This is only going to work if the collar is reasonably concentric.

Depending on how good the penetration is I may not have to go much deeper than the minor thread diameter but it all needs a good rotary wire brushing before it goes near my nice lathe !

[djc]

I must have missed it somewhere, but why does the joiner need to come off at all?

It is possible to buy a street elbow to go in its female thread or a close nipple to convert it back to male thread for a standard elbow.

Even if unthreaded or damaged threads, could you turn the threads off one end of a close or standard nipple and use 6013 or 7018 loctite to secure it in the joiner?

[awemawson]

The pipe would be too far off the wall, and the coupler thread is not very good  and not even round at the exposed end

Anyway things have moved on -  managed to escape for an hour this afternoon (guests running late  ) so removed the lathe tail stock and mounted up the pipe, coupler in the chuck.

Initially I turned the pipe up to the shoulder down to the minor thread diameter, then about 50 thou below, and even tried to undercut the shoulder but it wasn't having it, the weld penetration must have been good!

So I decided to part it off, and see if the remaining thread would work with the elbow (It's a BSPT thread so tapered)

Sadly not - I can get about half a turn on. So I decided to mount it up and re-thread it on the lathe. Carriage to extreme right which involved removing the taper turner bracket and RH stop mechanism but still I couldn't get the threading tool far enough to the right.

Now  I must study pictures, but I think the I can shorten the pipe at least 1" maybe 1.5" which will solve the problem, but time caught up with me and I had to go 'meeting and greeting' !

. . . .so hopefully a job for tomorrow

[chipenter]

Turn the tool end for end and mount it on the other side of the tool post .

[awemawson]

Good thinking 

[vtsteam]

Andrew, did you see my post earlier asking you if you wanted info about tuned pipes?

[awemawson]

Steve yes I did thank you. Not much option here to tune as apart from the last vertical section lengths are pretty well dictated.

Without proper threading kit for this size of pipe I知 limited to what will fit in the lathe .

[djc]

Turn the tool end for end and mount it on the other side of the tool post .

And for really serious length increase, a boring bar facing backwards, used externally.

[awemawson]

So as Jeff said the OBVIOUS thing to do is mount the tool on the RH face of the tool post, but in my rush yesterday it didn't occur to me 

So this morning once things were calm on the canine front I re-threaded the end of the pipe. Nasty horrible job as the pipe is far from straight with a 50 thou eccentricity from where I could fit the roller steady to the end, so the re-cut thread is  far from concentric but that doesn't matter in this application. It fits and is mechanically strong - I'm sure that it would leak like a sieve under pressure !

I'd expected picking up the thread would be the hard part, but it was a doddle.

[mattinker]

Andrew,

A long time ago, I worked in a Quarry with a welder who taught me a lot about fabrication. We had a dust suppression system to install, no threading equipment available. Trevor's solution was to collect stubs of threaded pipe in the scrap pile and weld them on when we needed them!  Sometimes, if I need a pipe thread, I'll buy black pipe nipples and weld them on, even though I have a lathe!

Cheers, Matthew

[awemawson]

All done (hopefully!) now Matthew.

So I've just fitted the exhaust stack and proved that the generator opens it OK - which it does 

[awemawson]

My long series 5 mm drills came this morning, so while a friend was entertaining puppy I managed to cut and fix panel #6 and complete the fixing of panel #5

Annoyingly, when I'd carefully cut panel #6 to height and cut round the RSJ and fixed it in place, I found that it was only 35 inches wide, unlike the rest that are a 1 metre coverage. It doesn't really matter except that I now have 4 inches of angle iron sticking out at the end of the wall. I'll probably cut it off with an angle grinder at some stage.

[modeng200023]

Don't forget to instal some lighting in the generator room.

John

[awemawson]

Yes John my friend the ex-fireman keeps nagging me about that 

The only lighting originally in the stable are two halogen PIRs, one of which will be in the "generator room" but long term I will put some LED floodlights, both for the Generator and also for the rest of the stable.

[kayzed1]

Do you have a drain hole in the elbow o/s to drain the stack?

[awemawson]

No I don稚 but drilling one would be easy. Theoretically it should stay dry, the rain cap should keep the rain out and condensation should evaporate as it will be hot but now you mention it I値l drill one 

I知 now looking for used welding blankets to hang up as sound absorbers so if anyone has a pile please let me know.

[awemawson]

Guests arriving this morning so not much will be done, however I managed to 'clear the decks' ready for the second (return) wall to be built. I've only two full height panels left, one being a metre wide and the other 35 inches, so that dictates the wall length!

Also I've drilled a drain hole in the exhaust stack as suggested by Kayzed1 - thanks 

[jiihoo]

Hi Andrew,

Annoyingly, when I'd carefully cut panel #6 to height and cut round the RSJ and fixed it in place, I found that it was only 35 inches wide, unlike the rest that are a 1 metre coverage. It doesn't really matter except that I now have 4 inches of angle iron sticking out at the end of the wall. I'll probably cut it off with an angle grinder at some stage.

Assuming this is not a corner but end of the wall: Maybe fix a 2 x 4 or 2 x 5 vertically on the end of the wall, fixed to the extra length of angle iron. Do a roundover on the outer corners if you want to be fancy and then start calling it a design feature to "protect the frail edge of the paneling".
You could also install a light switch, electrical outlets or hooks for extension cords etc. on it.

So definitely seeing this more of a design feature than a mistake here 

Cheers,

Jari

[awemawson]

Yes nice touch!

I知 following some strip pvc curtains in eBay and if I win them they will form the  電oor鋳 between the two walls so a vertical there is probably needed anyway

[awemawson]

After the guests had left I was able to escape for 5 minutes and cut the top and bottom angles for the second wall.

(Top angle is much longer as it needs to span three rafters)

[kayzed1]

Guests arriving this morning so not much will be done, however I managed to 'clear the decks' ready for the second (return) wall to be built. I've only two full height panels left, one being a metre wide and the other 35 inches, so that dictates the wall length!

Also I've drilled a drain hole in the exhaust stack as suggested by Kayzed1 - thanks 

 

[kayzed1]

I have had a few expensive Motorcycle exhausts go because they for got to do the hole at the low point.

[WeldingRod]

You haven't lived until you've started a big diesel with no rain cap or drain hole!

Black oily crud EVERYWHERE...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[awemawson]

I managed to get the angle iron for the return wall screwed up to the rafters, and hence drop a vertical to locate and fix down the floor angle.

It was great fun holding that one up under the rafters and screwing at the same time - it weighs about 30 kg - a combination of ropes and ladder balancing -  though I only dropped it once 

So next is to mark out and fix the two remaining panels - not really looking forward to it as both top and bottom slope AND the rafters need cutting round. Might need to make templates 

[kayzed1]

Could you not use U channel top and bottom..infill the top and then slid the ends in, a couple of self tappers to hold them in place.
That would make it easy for when you need extra light to change the oil....and stuff.