PeterE builds a 3d Printer

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PeterE:
Hi nrml,

Yes, I understood, but just fixing the foil to the plywood carrier will not do the full job I think. It ought to have some sort of temperature insulation/isolation between the board and the foil to be fully effective - or? :scratch:

BR

/Peter

tom osselton:
I wouldn't worry about the heat wood warms up good and it is well below the flashpoint, one of the things affecting it more is cross breezes cooling it down during printing.

picclock:
@PeterE NMrl

Thanks for your kind wishes. The wedding went off very well thx, even the speech seemed to go down OK so thats a big thing out of the way.

Peter you seem to have made very rapid progress, and its looking really good. Tom Osseltons comment is quite valid. I had looked at two strategies to deal with the issue. The first to surround the build area with a wall of cardboard perhaps an inch or so higher than the printed object. The other was to 3D print a throwaway wall around the print being made. May well stick a sheet of cork under the bed heater to improve insulation, though it limits the bed temp to about 120C (more than I will need ATM :thumbup:)

Great to see your progress and pictures. Will post more on my log when I get a chance. Just picked up a large mirror on Gumtree for £5 which should make at least 6 printer beds (depending on how many I break cutting it :drool:)

Hope to be getting on with the build soon.

Best Regards

picclock

PeterE:
Good Evening folks,

@tom osselton; Thanks for that info. Then I can skip some work with the heatbed carrier. Will keep that in mind.

@picclock; The cardboard fence idea seems interesting, but having it come up higher than the finished piece may be an issue as the cooling fan for the extruder might be below that fence at least in the beginning and then cause a cooling airflow that is unwanted.

Anyway, got some time in the shop this evening and took the opportunity to assemble most of the Y axis bits. I am following Dragonfly's (John Ridley) instructions to make it easy on my part. The instruction is here: http://www.dragonflydiy.com/2013/10/building-prusa-i3-printer-y-axis.html.

The image shows the assembled and secured mechanics.
.
It is very close to square all over already now by just tightening. It only remains to do the last part when securing the whole thing to the portal and baseplate. This will be done when the Carrier board and the driveline is in place.

So, time for the carrier board and I am using the mesaurements from the instruction. There shall be a bracket for the toothed belt fixed to the carrier. I found that it should be placed so that the bracket will not pass the corner of the stepper motor, and centered between the bearings, see below.

In the other end at the tension point, the bracket must not reach the fitting to avoid un-necessary bending forces.

Now we turn the whole thing onto its "feet" for a try in place in the portal. The carrier board and motor is placed towards the operator,:

... and with the carrier at the other end away from the operator it looks as follows.

As can be seen, I haven't fitted any bearing in the tensioner yet as the ones I originally ordered were too big :-( One of the mishaps in ordering. As soon as I have the correct size I will continue assembly.

/Peter

PeterE:
Eveni'n

Got a few minutes for a quick addition. Started to assemble the Z movement. The pictures show the right side and the left will be assembled in the same way.

I placed a piece of 3 mm cork (that I normally use for track bed for my H0 model railroad) as a spacing between the base plate and the stepper motor. This gives the right measurement. The black bracket is secured both from "round the corner" and straight into the portal behind the motor.

The vertical smooth rod is placed in its hole with some light press fit. This is necessary for stability. I used a reamer to get the hole size correct.

Then the upper end is held by yet another little bracket fitted in the same way really.

The picture shows the setup - sorry for the tall picture.

Before going further I have to get a new X-end idler as the printed part was not quite OK. Will get a new one during next week. (This does not hinder anything as I am on a business trip at the time).

TIP! I noticed that the brackets have been designed for countersunk screws. Be careful not to overtighten, the ABS plastic needs careful handling. In my view cheesehead screws would have been a better choice - where possible of course.

BR

/Peter

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