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PeterE builds a 3d Printer
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PeterE:
Evening All,

Just noticed that one of the pictures was lost, sorry. I had to exchange the old one for one with better quality and now I cannot change the address. The image name is now "3Dprinter-18_1.jpg" and if any of the moderators would be so kind to add the _1 the image will be back.

But that was only one thing to talk about.

The 3D printer project moves slowly but that's how it is. Got some time in the shop tonight to think and cut a few more pieces.

In the first picture it looks much the same as the last one, but I discovered that I should have used a 12mm threaded rod instead of the 10mm one for the long rod. So off to the store and get a length of 12mm stainless threaded rod. It is now cut to length.

It does probably not show that much, but will have a significant effect. A 12mm bar is much stiffer than a 10mm one, especially when being just short of 400mm long. With this the Y axis movement should be quite stable and not want to bend under tension.

I also came to the conclusion that if I make a sort of "nut" that the 12mm rod is threaded through and that the nut itself is screwed down into the base of the portal and into the base plate, that would make quite sure that the y axis is fixed in level and angle to the portal. Two screws in each "nut" should provide a good enough connection. Will be this weeks task to do.

Next image shows the piece of plywood I intend to use as heatbed carrier plate and it is to that one the bearaings and drive belt is attached.

I am also thinking of making some "lightning holes" in the carrier plate, both to make it lighter, but also to make heat transportation easier to lessening heat skewing in the carrier.

In the final picture I just put the heatbed on top of the carrier plate to give a view of how it will look. The heatbed will be held at a distance from the carrier plate by a spring in each corner, That should make any movements from heat possible to handle within reasonable limits.

So, this weeks task will be to make the four special nuts to tie the y axis to the base and portal.

/Peter
picclock:
Hi Peter

Really good to see your progress. Would like to post some of my own but its my daughters wedding Friday and I'm not allowed to play. Am currently in the process of making a spring loaded idler pulley. Will post pictures when I get a chance.

Keep up the good work.

Best Regards

picclock
nrml:
@PeterE
Looking good. Are you going to put a layer of aluminium foil between the heated bed and plywood to reflect some of the heat back into the bed?
I have no idea if it actually makes a difference or not but I did it because it cost nothing and made me feel better about reducing heat loss.

@picclock
good luck with the speech. Hope the wedding goes perfectly to plan.
PeterE:
Good evening, me again,

@picclock; Of course, such family matters have definite precedence  :thumbup: Hope it will be a joyful event!

@nrml; Haven't thought of that really. An idea to look into once assembled and tested. It is an easy one to retrofit. But my thinking is that as there will also be a glass plate clamped onto the heatbed, the glass will ackumulate the heat and keep it stable. Should be enough really. Actually I am more concerned about getting the plywood carrier board to hot so will see if I can add a couple of holes for better airflow and cooling.  Well, we'll see where it goes.

Now onto next advancement. The four small threaded securing blocks are now done. Had a piece of 20x40 mm aluminium from which I cut four 20 mm pieces. Following some filing, marking, drilling and threading, here we are:

The little blocks are about the same size as the printed plastic ones, but mine are threaded using the same M12x1.75 mm thread as the stainless rod. This will limit the need for using the blocks as stop blocks to which the rods are locked using the nuts, but instead acts as positioners and positively locks down the rods to the portal and base at the same time. I think this will make the whole setup more stable.

I discovered during trial assembly that the threaded rods runs more or less right on top of the portal's base surface. So, the blocks are milled down to show the tips of the thread and the rods are correctly positioned.

Assembled it will look something like in the picture below.

Still just trial assy but this week it will be completely and finally assembled after the plywood carrier board is currently getting a bit of paint.

/Peter
nrml:
I meant foil between the carrier board and the heated bed to keep radiant heat away from the plywood board and reflect it back to the heated bed and glass plate.
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