Things bin a bit slow as we had a short holiday in London.
The guys at the club and the boiler inspector advised me to use rivet stays as they are far easyer to put in and just as effective, as the girder stays specified in the drawing. I couldn't get any rivets long enough so decided to make some out of 3/16 copper rod, I made a little upsetting jig this is simply a 3/16 hole in a chunk of steel, split through so that the rivet can be removed. To make the rivets I cut some 40mm length of copper bar, annealed them then put one in the jig with a short length protruding grip it tight in the vice and give it a good wallop with a hammer to upset the head. You can get the idea from the pic.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveAnother bit of advice was not to try drilling rivet hole through both plates at the same time as the drill just wonders and the stays end up crooked, best to carfully mark the two parts out and drill them separately, this is the boiler tube marked out.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveAnd the set up to hold the boiler on the mill table for drilling.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveDrilling the stay holes, and safety valve hole
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveDrilling the hole for the steam dome.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge Locomotivefor some reason the steam dome hole was going off line so finished the job off with a file.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveSteam dome bush fitted.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveSteam dome bush soldered to the boiler.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveDrilling the stay holes in the firebox.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveAnd a trial fitting of the parts the stays are not fully assembled in place.
Building a Boiler for a 3 1/2" Gauge LocomotiveJohn was coming over this afternoon to help solder the stays but it was raining so we,ve put it off until Thursday.
Cheers
Stew