Author Topic: started a new project (Read 60462 times)

sbwhart · « **Reply #25 on:** November 30, 2009, 02:09:30 AM »

Great work Chuck.

Stew

bogstandard · « **Reply #26 on:** November 30, 2009, 03:28:35 AM »

Very nice techniques shown there Chuck.

This post is sure one to keep an eye on.

John

Ned Ludd · « **Reply #27 on:** November 30, 2009, 07:28:52 AM »

Hi Darren,
You ask how you will remember all the useful tips, well don't worry it will all be tucked away waiting to come to the fore when needed. Well maybe you will remember too late, once in a while!

Last night I was machining a custom crank arm for a mates carbon fibre trike, well I was scratching the old bone dome as to how to machine the tapered sides. I could use the RT but the clamps would get in the way, then "eureka" moment, as I remembered Bogstandard's way of using pins to machine tapered gibs. Couple of minutes with calculator and Trig tables, with job mounted in vice using two number drill shanks and Hey Presto, job done. Beauty of the system is that by swapping drills end for end you can do the two sides perfectly equally. Before you ask still no photos, must try and find the camera!
Ned Ludd

chuck foster · « **Reply #28 on:** November 30, 2009, 08:50:02 PM »

you know it is funny how we think we are going to do something and end up doing something else instead

well i was hoping to finish off the ignitor tonight................well that didn't happen

i got out to the shop and started working on the cylinder, i installed a threaded boss on the side of the cylinder for the water cooler connection.
it is the brass piece near the bottom of the cylinder.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5269.jpg

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then i figured i would lap the bore to size (1.312")

i use a expandable brass barrel lap that is sold by a tool company called k.b.c. tools. to adjust the lap you turn the adjusting screw on the far right end of the lap.

here it is mounted in the lathe.as you can see i have a cloth covering the ways of the lathe, this is to prevent any lapping compound dripping onto the ways and ruining my lathe.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5263.jpg

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a closer shot

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5264.jpg

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i spread lapping compound (in this case 150 grit) on to the lap with a small paint brush. then i dribble a small amount of cutting oil on the lap, just for some lubrication.

i then push the cylinder about 2" on to the lap. adjust the lap so you feel a small amount of drag when you try to turn the cylinder.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5265.jpg

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then i start the lathe (about 300 rpm) and slowly working the cylinder back and forth on the lap

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5266.jpg

started a new project

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5267.jpg

started a new project

while you are lapping you never want to pull the lap completely out of the cylinder bore. after a few minutes stop the lathe take the cylinder off the lap and clean out the cylinder bore and check to see if all the lathe machining marks are gone. if not tighten the lap about a quarter turn and repeat the whole process. when you are done you should have a nice cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bore like the next picture shows

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5268.jpg

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i lap all the bores in my engines and i very rarely use piston rings, i just fit the piston to the bore with about 0.0002 to 0.0003 tho. clearence.
i have one engine that has about 1500 hours of running and it still has lots of compression.

eric: i didn't know you were ill, i hope all is well now my friend

darren: if you ever figure out how to remember all the ideas,tip's and tricks suggested on this forum........LET US KNOW HOW

well that,s all for tonight
chuck

Darren · « **Reply #29 on:** December 01, 2009, 07:00:00 AM »

That is looking right professional Chuck

bogstandard · « **Reply #30 on:** December 01, 2009, 10:15:37 AM »

It seems that soft faced laps are cheap and readily available in the US, but over here, even though they are available, you have to go in search of them.

I tend to use a brake cylinder hone with oil stones for doing the same job, but they are very limited because they won't do the small sizes that we usually come across, in that situation I use either a lap made from nylon rod or wooden dowel.

Very nice work indeed Chuck.

John

chuck foster · « **Reply #31 on:** December 01, 2009, 08:27:50 PM »

darren: thank you for your kind comment, i try to make things the best i can and i try to improve every time i make something.

bogs: laps are easy to get here in canada, i have them from 1 1/2" dia. down to .040" dia (the small ones are called needle eye laps)

well tonight i finally got to working on the ignitor

it's not finished but it is getting closer

the first two pictures show the trip finger that i rough out earlier

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5280.jpg

started a new project

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5281.jpg

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i then made the trip spring plate

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5282.jpg

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this next two pictures show the two parts assembled, i still have to make a proper bolt instead of the phillips head screw

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5283.jpg

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http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5284.jpg

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and the ignitor on the left is the new one and i'm coping the one on the right

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5287.jpg

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well that's are for tonight

chuck

Bernd · « **Reply #32 on:** December 01, 2009, 09:26:34 PM »

Chuck,

I was going to ask what an ignitor was but figured it's to give you a spark for ignition. I keep going back to the picture you show of the original.

What puzzels me is how it will work on the engine. Please don't tell me because I want to see if I can have an AH HA moment when I figure it out.

All I want to know is there more parts to make it function?

Nice job on the documentation and pics so far.

Bernd

chuck foster · « **Reply #33 on:** December 03, 2009, 07:39:41 AM »

bernd: you are 100% right..............an ignitor is used instead of a spark plug, it is a very simple device. it uses a 6 or 12 volt battery for the power source and a induction coil is wired in to the circuit. i won't tell any more..............so you can have your AH HA momment.
there is a couple of more parts to make it work, you will see them as this project comes together.

chuck

chuck foster · « **Reply #34 on:** December 03, 2009, 09:20:53 PM »

i didn't get any work done on the model but i did find a video of the original model, now the video is kinda crappy but it is what it is.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/MVI_3213.jpg

started a new project

chuck

sbwhart · « **Reply #35 on:** December 04, 2009, 02:35:57 AM »

Lovely engine

Thanks for showing

Stew

chuck foster · « **Reply #36 on:** December 09, 2009, 09:53:47 PM »

well i managed to do some more work on this project, so i figured i had better start on the cylinder head. i think it is the most complicated part so here it goes.

the cylinder head that i'm copying

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_4987.jpg

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http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_4988.jpg

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here is a picture showing the head beside the chunk of steel that will ( i hope ) become the new cylinder head.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5149.jpg

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i chose 12L14 for the head just because it machines easier than normal cold or hot rolled.

the next picture shows the piece merrily spinning in my lathe. the combustion chamber has been machined out and i'm turning down the o.d of the head.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5151.jpg

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then after the o.d. was close to size i marked out the outer profile of the head. i will be using the mill and rotary table to cut the outer profile.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5157.jpg

started a new project

well that's all for tonight, hopefully i will be able to work on this for the next few week's without any interuptions (like that will happen)

chuck

chuck foster · « **Reply #37 on:** December 13, 2009, 11:33:40 AM »

got a bit more done today

here we are milling the outer profile of the cylinder head

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/IMG_5158.jpg

started a new project

now i must apologize for the lack of progress photo's but the truth be known the wife borrowed the camera and i didn't want to wait for her to return it.
so the next photo shows the head almost done

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/IMG_5168.jpg

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the square hole cut into the side of the head is for the ignitor

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/IMG_5171.jpg

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this last picture shows the top of the cylinder head and the two 3/8" hole are for the valve guides

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/IMG_5174.jpg

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i used 12L14 steel, what a treat to use

now all i have to do some file work to clean up all the machining marks and press valve guides in, but that will have to wait...........domestic duties call

it was allot of milling and lathe work but it went well and i enjoyed the whole process.

chuck

Powder Keg · « **Reply #38 on:** December 14, 2009, 06:08:56 AM »

Any updates Chuck? That bore looks great!!! Where would one find laping compound?

chuck foster · « **Reply #39 on:** December 14, 2009, 07:41:01 AM »

hi wes: i just roughed out the cylinder head in the previous post dec/13/09, hope to get some more work done on it tonight.

as far as the lapping compound, i bought all of mine on ebay. i never looked any where else, im sure a google search would turn up several suppliers.

chuck

Bernd · « **Reply #40 on:** December 14, 2009, 09:02:38 AM »

I bet Enco, MSC, McMaster Carr, etc..........would carry that in their catologs.

Bernd

chuck foster · « **Reply #41 on:** December 17, 2009, 08:56:37 PM »

well not much to report on this build (christmas functions are getting in the way) any who here is the cylinder head complete with valve guides and valves.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5288.jpg

started a new project

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5289.jpg

started a new project

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5290.jpg

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http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5291.jpg

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not much but that's all i could get done tonight.

chuck

OKTomT · « **Reply #42 on:** December 17, 2009, 09:12:26 PM »

Very nice I am enjoying this. Thanks for posting. how did you get the cast gray look and could you tell us how you cut the valve seats. Tom

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #43 on:** December 18, 2009, 02:20:58 AM »

Chuck,

That`s beautiful........

David D

Darren · « **Reply #44 on:** December 18, 2009, 05:12:02 AM »

Like tom I'm enjoying this thread too, there sure is some talent on this board

NickG · « **Reply #45 on:** December 18, 2009, 10:16:04 AM »

Yeah very nice work Chuck!

Nick

chuck foster · « **Reply #46 on:** December 19, 2009, 09:54:41 PM »

first off thanks: david,darren and nick the kind words help a project move a little easier

tom: i got the grey casting look by sand basting the cylinder head, the head is made out of 12L14 steel so it might blast different than mild steel.
as far as the valve seat's go i just set the head up in the mill and reamed the valve guides and without moving the head i used a 90 degree countersink to cut the valve seats.
then i just lapped them with 400 grit lapping compound.

today i was home alone, and i was able to get some work done

i started fabricating the crankshaft.
this is what i started with, 1/2" drill rod and 2 pieces of 3/4" x 3/8" cold rolled flat bar.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5424.jpg

started a new project

first thing to do is face off the longer of the two shaft's and center drill both ends. the center drilling makes the crankshaft look more like the original.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5427.jpg

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next i squared up both blocks of cold rolled

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5429.jpg

started a new project

next thing to do is drill holes for the crankshaft and throw. these ones will be center drilled, drilled and then reamed to .499" .
reaming 0.001" under 1/2" makes for a nice snug fit for the crankshaft and throw.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5430.jpg

started a new project

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5431.jpg

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http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5433.jpg

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here we have one throw done so i will have to do all of the above procedures one more time

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5434.jpg

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and here we have both finished ready for the next step.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5435.jpg

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and the next step is to machine the end thrust cheek's, the picture show's what i mean.
i use a brass expanding lap to hold the parts to machine the end thrust cheek's. the brass lap was not designed for this procedure but if you take light cuts it will work fine.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5439.jpg

started a new project

now we can put all the pieces together and see if we have a crank. when putting all the parts together i use loc-tite red to help hold everything in place. after allowing time for the loc-tite to set i then drill and ream holes for tapered pin's. the pin's are driven into the reamed hole's.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5440.jpg

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tapered pin's in place

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5442.jpg

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after the pin's are driven in place the end's of the pin's are cut off and filed flush with the crank throw's.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5446.jpg

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next step is to trim the ends of the crank throw pin

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5444.jpg

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this crankshaft get's a 1/8" key way on in both ends of the shaft...........so here we go

first square the crank to the mill table, this ensures the key ways will be directly opposite the throw.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5448.jpg

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all thats left is to cut the key way and then turn the crank end for end and repeat the key way set up and cutting procedure.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5450.jpg

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here one end is done and the other is about to get a key way cut

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5451.jpg

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with both key ways cut the next thing to do is cut the center of the crankshaft out. you can cut it out with a saw but i use the mill.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5457.jpg

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after cutting through just clean up the ends of the crank and you will have a finished crankshaft

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5459.jpg

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the finished crankshaft

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc274/aermotor8/upright%20domestic%20model/IMG_5462.jpg

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this is the way i have made all but one of my gas engine crankshafts (about 10 or 12 of them) and all have work without fail.
it is allot faster than trying to turn a crankshaft out of one piece in the lathe, i turned the crank for my fairbanks morse engine from a solid piece of steel, it took hours to get it right.
the crankshaft i made today took about 1 1/2 hours to complete.

well that's all for tonight as for tomorrow ..................... who knows

chuck

NickG · « **Reply #47 on:** December 20, 2009, 03:43:55 AM »

Very nice Chuck. I like that method, could be cut and paste into a how to guide. No messy solder to contend with there which is what I like about it. I've done a couple of simple crankshafts from solut but never with a proper centre journal and can imagine it would take hours and hours.

I will use this method if I choose to make the poppin flame licker engine.

Thanks,

Nick

Powder Keg · « **Reply #48 on:** December 20, 2009, 05:09:08 AM »

Nice job on the crank there Chuck!

Bernd · « **Reply #49 on:** December 20, 2009, 11:38:43 AM »

Very nice write up Chuck.

Bernd

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Author Topic: started a new project (Read 60462 times)

bogstandard

bogstandard