MadModder

Here's my drawing, treat it as a guide no dimensions are set in stone.  If you go for a none conductive base, the contact posts can be 3mm taller.  I would recommend Delrin or Acrylic for the insulators, you want something that won't creep over time and work loose.   The contact and stud could be one piece, I just wanted to challenge myself in doing a very short blind threaded section.  I modified a bottom tap to achieve this with almost no lead in.  An M3 brass bolt would be a good one piece substitute and just machine the head so it is slightly domed.

The key wire can have a small flat ground on it for the grub screw to bite and keep it locked in place.   Use other images where the drawing detail may not be so clear, or just ask.

For the wire post countersunk fastener I drilled a 10mm hole, for the contact posts I used a 10mm end mill to have flat bottomed holes.  I haven't shown any wiring, you can mill out the base or find other ways to attach.  It can be used manually or as I prefer using a keyer that produces the dits and dahs if you hold the paddle over.   My preference is dits on the left and dah's on the right.   Phono plugs can be used and say put either side of the key wire post.   If you go for an alternative base material, it helps if it's heavy as it will move about otherwise.

A marathon of a video covering a B&S Flojet carb rebuild, sorting out what turned out to be a very simple fault on the westwood garden trator, more Qualters and smith hacksaw rebuilding, Some lathework, and a day clearing the orchard with the now fixed garden tractor and starting our bumper fruit harvest! Tis the season of mellow fruitfulness!
Phil in hot wet and Autumnal East Yorkshire
https://youtu.be/XYuU2QGSxKM

Let the wreck rest in peace.

Thanks kayzed1

So, it was generators not batteries that shorted out.   Yes, interesting read.