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Radio Control Models / Re: 1/16 scale Terramac RT7R
« Last post by ddmckee54 on December 31, 2025, 01:55:18 AM »Santa brought me a garage door for an early Christmas present, he's also bringing me a P1S/AMS combo as a late Christmas present. The gaping hole in the front of my garage is now filled and the building is weather-tight. Insulating it, or any other work on the inside, is going to have to wait for warmer weather.
I tried printing some larger than 200mm stuff on the MP10 and it crapped out again, that's why Santa's bringing me the late present.
I also decided it was time to install the Micro Swiss all-metal hot end on the D6. In the process I discovered the root cause of the jamming issue I'd been having on it. The D6 uses an aluminum block with a series of slots milled in it as a heatsink for the heat break. This block is bolted to the bottom of the extruder drive, which caps off the open top of the slots. The cooling fan blows air through the slots to cool the heat break. The Micro Swiss all metal hot end replaces this heatsink with one of their own design. I found 2 things that were issues with the original heatsink. First, at least 75% of the cooling slots were blocked off with dust, This would cause heat creep, and eventually the filament would be melting in the heat break, not the nozzle, causing a jam. I'm going to have to blow these slots out once in a while or the same thing will happen to the Micro Swiss heatsink. (When I found that issue I almost regretted ordering the P1S, until I remembered that to get a quality print out of the D6 I have to print at 60mm/sec, while they recommend 200mm/sec on the P1S.) The second issue I found was that the slots that were right next to where the heat break went through the heatsink had no exit, they were dead-headed so about 25% of the heatsink NEVER worked properly. The cooling fan could pressurize the slots, but that air would be static so it wouldn't help cool the heatsink. Those slots didn't have any dust in them which shows no air was circulating through them. The Micro Swiss heatsink has an exit milled in for these slots.
I finally found some 1/4"x1/2" aluminum flat bar for the RT7's upper frame rails, so I'm going back to Plan A and using the aluminum frame rails. They'll be a little easier to machine on the equipment I've got.
I tried printing some larger than 200mm stuff on the MP10 and it crapped out again, that's why Santa's bringing me the late present.
I also decided it was time to install the Micro Swiss all-metal hot end on the D6. In the process I discovered the root cause of the jamming issue I'd been having on it. The D6 uses an aluminum block with a series of slots milled in it as a heatsink for the heat break. This block is bolted to the bottom of the extruder drive, which caps off the open top of the slots. The cooling fan blows air through the slots to cool the heat break. The Micro Swiss all metal hot end replaces this heatsink with one of their own design. I found 2 things that were issues with the original heatsink. First, at least 75% of the cooling slots were blocked off with dust, This would cause heat creep, and eventually the filament would be melting in the heat break, not the nozzle, causing a jam. I'm going to have to blow these slots out once in a while or the same thing will happen to the Micro Swiss heatsink. (When I found that issue I almost regretted ordering the P1S, until I remembered that to get a quality print out of the D6 I have to print at 60mm/sec, while they recommend 200mm/sec on the P1S.) The second issue I found was that the slots that were right next to where the heat break went through the heatsink had no exit, they were dead-headed so about 25% of the heatsink NEVER worked properly. The cooling fan could pressurize the slots, but that air would be static so it wouldn't help cool the heatsink. Those slots didn't have any dust in them which shows no air was circulating through them. The Micro Swiss heatsink has an exit milled in for these slots.
I finally found some 1/4"x1/2" aluminum flat bar for the RT7's upper frame rails, so I'm going back to Plan A and using the aluminum frame rails. They'll be a little easier to machine on the equipment I've got.
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