| Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs |
| An Electric Bicycle |
| << < (14/39) > >> |
| picclock:
Hi Just reading this thread and noticed the picture of the motor working on the side of the wheel. When I was in holland I noticed some bikes with a small IC engine which was driving the top of the wheel (front wheel). These appear to be sprung loaded to bear vertically down on the tyre which gives a high friction drive. This all but eliminates any problem of rim misalignment. Just a thought if you haven't considered it. Best Regards picclock |
| S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: picclock on June 16, 2014, 12:26:27 PM ---Hi Just reading this thread and noticed the picture of the motor working on the side of the wheel. When I was in holland I noticed some bikes with a small IC engine which was driving the top of the wheel (front wheel). These appear to be sprung loaded to bear vertically down on the tyre which gives a high friction drive. This all but eliminates any problem of rim misalignment. Just a thought if you haven't considered it. Best Regards picclock --- End quote --- Thanks for the suggestion. I've seen a few of that type around but I don't really like the look of them. Some people have used sandpaper to try and get a grip and it just seems like it'd cause alot of wear to the tyre, and wreck them if the wheel ever stalled and the motor kept spinning. Plus, secretly, I also want to try doing something that I haven't seen done before (even if there's a good reason why nobody's tried it this way before!). As an update, the batteries and other stuff all arrived. I'm now ordering some new connectors (EC3) for the battery since the ones that come with them from hobbyking are some weird genderless ones, and i'm having visions of accidentally plugging them together when fumbling with 12 or more identical connectors. So i'm holding off testing the motor and controller for now. I also need to buy an ammeter and volt meter, or at least read up on how shunts actually work so I can use the multimeter I bought outside of its 10 amps max. So i've been doing some more metal work and I'm caught in one of those... chains. Where I want to turn down some forstner bits to drill press fit holes for the bearings in aluminium (forstner bits drill aluminium surprisingly well, although i'm making sure to hold it down securely since there's probably a big risk of them grabbing the work piece). But my lathe cant produce a finish worth a damn any more, and I don't want to risk trying to turn the relatively tough forstner bit steel with it as is. So i've decided to give it a long overdue tune up. But that's requiring the delivery of some shim stock. It's a chain of jobs I can't get started on until that one delivery arrives. |
| vtsteam:
Steve, I know just how you feel! |
| S. Heslop:
Well, forstner bits can drill aluminium it's tough going. I'd also made the 19mm drill and hole about a quarter millimeter too small. And while the 24mm bearing did press in (using a bench vise) it ended up seizing up despite machining a pressing die to only push the outer race. It's gonna be tough getting that back out. I think i'm gonna have to approach this different. I might try using my duff 4 jaw chuck as a face plate, the chuck jaw channels would probably work as T slots. Alternately I could order some reamers of the right size. How do reamers fare with loose setups, like a drill press with a millimeters play? |
| vtsteam:
I don't really know what you're trying to do, Steve. Any pictures to make it clearer? How thick material, how large the piece, how big the hole? To speak just generally, for close and/or odd sizes, boring is my favored method for large enough holes in thick enough material to be held in the lathe. I have made odd size special purpose drills upon occasion, and have also made simple reamers using drill rod (silver steel) with a flat ground at an angle diagonally at one end. But again, hard to tell what you're doing. Usually boring works best. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |