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| S. Heslop:
Here's the plate with the stuck bearing. I did think a little ahead and drilled two small holes into the step so I'd hopefully have an easier time trying to get the bearing back out. It's just very tight! I'm thinking about removing the inner race and trying to crack the outer one, but i'm a little worried about messing up the soft metal surrounding. Here's the chuck. It's far out of square unfortunately, and I don't know if I could be bothered to spend time carefully shimming the plate if I held it in the jaws, so I figured it'd be easier to just turn it into a real fat faceplate. M8 nuts would fit alright down the channel if not for the scrolls. The scrolls are held in by pressed in yokes, which is apparently a common design for 4 jaw chucks and they're supposed to press back out. But I figured it'd be easier to drill and tape a hole in the backs of them, and use a screw to pull them out. Unless they're made from some super hard steel, in which case I'll have to make some sort of forked punch to get them out. I was really thinking about boring the plates on the lathe to begin with, but I was curious to see if the forstner bit idea would work (which it almost did! I guess I just overdid it shaving the forstner bits down on the lathe). |
| vtsteam:
For removing the bearing, you might try putting the plate in the freezer overnight, then using a propane torch to heat the aluminum plate around the bearing while pressing it out. Steve I don't know how much material you have available, and I know money is tight, but if you could hold something else in the chuck, with holes tapped into it to match holes in the part you want to bore, you could first mount that piece and face it square, then bolt your part to it -- it is now square, and then bore your holes. Think of it as a temporarry faceplate. My first faceplate in my homemade lathe was just a piece of 1/2" pipe screwed into a pipe flange. I mounted that, turned the face of the pipe flange square. Then I screwed to that a 7" dia 3/4" plywood disk, faced that. Then I mounted my actual rough cast 7" aluminum faceplate blank to that, and faced it, both sides, after turning it around. Then I bored it and had myself a true aluminum faceplate which replaced the temporary rig with drill rod for an arbor. Then I trued the edge of the new faceplate did a minor cleanup of the face, and all was well. |
| S. Heslop:
We're babysitting a baby tonight so I couldn't really try whacking the yokes out, so I just used the 4 jaw chuck as is. And it worked pretty well! Took a bit more setting up but gentle bumps from a hammer got it perpendicular to the lathe. I figure it's going to be more accurate than the forstner bits on a drill press would've been anyways. It was maybe still a little on the tight side but I pressed the bearing in no problem. Being an idiot I forgot to first machine a bore gauge to check how close I was to getting a good fit, so I just took light passes till it felt close. I guess I should've done this in the first place. |
| S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 20, 2014, 09:42:59 PM ---For removing the bearing, you might try putting the plate in the freezer overnight, then using a propane torch to heat the aluminum plate around the bearing while pressing it out. --- End quote --- This got the bearing out no problem, thanks for the suggestion! In other news, turns out my lathe tailstock was pretty much perfectly aligned by default, which was a nice surprise after it seemed nothing else was. I'm now turning a new motor shaft (to fit the gear) between centers. Had a stupid accident though. To get half-decent footage of the lathe i've been standing the tripod on top of the table and using a step ladder to reach it like in the photo below. No prizes for guessing what happened. Thankfully the camera is still intact and doesn't seem to have sustained any damage. I was recording when it fell too, and had the lense extended far out to focus right in on the workpiece. I guess all the bulk from the telescope mounting (it's really a telescope tripod!) hit the ground before the lense did and saved it. I've been thinking of constructing a 'sky hook' similar to doubleboost's for a while, so I guess after this I should really stop putting it off. |
| vtsteam:
Maybe a pipe clamp between joists would work as a temporary support bar for your sky hook. If you had an extra pipe clamp slide, you could slide and lock that in between the other two ends, and attach a drop rod for the camera to that. |
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