The Craftmans Shop > PowerSports
1954 Ford 850 Tractor w/blown Head Gasket (at the very least)
vtsteam:
Thanks Matt. Yes that does seem right.
The only thing i'm worried about is the weight of the cutter -- 1 inch (25 mm) plate -- it's about 11 pounds (5 kg). Probably 12 with a shank.
It's just hard to picture swinging that in an R8 collet from my round column mill drill.
I'm not as worried about the diameter of the cut as I am the weight of doing a cutter this way.
Thinking I should have planned to make the more usual bar type rather than a full round disk.
Maybe 1" is overkill. I do have some 1/2" plate.
Manxmodder:
vtsteam, you say the head has a pretty consistent curved bow of 0.012" over its length.
This is a less serious defect than if there was a pronounced dip between the 2 centre combustion chambers and is likely to have a better outcome when skimmed. If your going to fly cut on a machine that is slightly short on table travel then your cutter needs to be set parallel to the machine bed(no tilt).
The guy telling you about a slight tilt is right but only on a machine with sufficient travel to allow the lower side of the cutter to clear the workpiece at start and finish of the cut.(the head tilt needed with this setup is a very small amount,say1/4 of a degree or less)
Because of the gradual bow you describe I would suggest checking the head studs or bolts to see if they have been over tightened and stretched.
If they have been stretched you may notice some necking or waisting on the unthreaded portion....OZ.
Manxmodder:
--- Quote from: mattinker on May 16, 2014, 09:04:08 PM ---Steve,
I would be inclined to follow your advice from your old time machine shop. The cuts that your going to make are going to be very light to take out 12thou. Your well balanced large diameter fly cutter would have plenty of inertia to cut and you would eliminate any risk of out of flat due to making two cuts. The shape of the tool is like a lathe tool if it's at right angles to the work piece.
My thoughts, regards, Matthew
--- End quote ---
I agree Mathew,I would also go with the big fly cutter and take light cuts and make sure it is well balanced. :thumbup: ....OZ.
Manxmodder:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 16, 2014, 09:21:18 PM ---Thanks Matt. Yes that does seem right.
The only thing i'm worried about is the weight of the cutter -- 1 inch (25 mm) plate -- it's about 11 pounds (5 kg). Probably 12 with a shank.
It's just hard to picture swinging that in an R8 collet from my round column mill drill.
I'm not as worried about the diameter of the cut as I am the weight of doing a cutter this way.
Thinking I should have planned to make the more usual bar type rather than a full round disk.
Maybe 1" is overkill. I do have some 1/2" plate.
--- End quote ---
1" does seem a bit of a lump but if it is in balance it should be ok.
It really depends on how big in diameter the drive shank is.....OZ.
vtsteam:
Thanks Manxmodder -- I will check those bolts, then.
Lester the machinist in town didn't know my bed travel was short, so his advice was well taken.
The curve of the bow according to my indicator seems to happen fairly consistently along the head, maybe increasing a little more rapidly towards either end. So I guess most of the material will be removed there.
Just found in the shop manual that .005" is acceptable bow across the whole head. .003" across any 5" length.
I've run into another small problem. I seem to have lost one of the small rotating caps the go on the exhaust valves. It would be a pretty simple turning job to make a new one using the diagram and description of tolerance in my shop manual, and I have the other 3 as examples, but I imagine they're probably hardened, and I wouldn't know to what degree to temper them. Maybe I can find them available online still.
I tried finding it outside the door of my shop with a metal detector, but fat chance! There's way too much scrap metal there in the ground.
Thank again for your help Manxmodder and Matt!
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