Author Topic: Project Loco (Read 29707 times)

shoey51 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2009, 06:08:43 AM »

a small update

I faced of a piece of 38mm round stock in the four jaw chuck till I go the correct sizes.

then lined up for the center of the cylinder and drilled it out in the lathe, increasing the drill size 1mm at atime till I got to the required size

then with a reamer in the chuck in the tailstock I reamed the hole to finish the cylinder. I turned the 4 jaw chuck by hand as i slowly turned in the reamer.

thats all for now

sbwhart · « **Reply #26 on:** March 27, 2009, 03:19:44 PM »

Like the use of packing under the jaws to stop damage

nice one.

Stew

shoey51 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 27, 2009, 04:03:13 PM »

Thanks Stew

here are a couple of pics to show how they fit to the loco. I have drilled and taped one hole on the front of each cylinder for mounting
the other hole will be marked out after final cylinder alignment

I havent drilled the port holes yet so still some work to be done. Im going to need a Mill for this I think to get accuracy

sbwhart · « **Reply #28 on:** March 27, 2009, 05:58:56 PM »

Hi Shoey

You can sucessfuly mill the ports in a lathe using a vertical slide.

This is what they are like you can get them to fit most lathes.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories

Cheers

Stew

shoey51 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 27, 2009, 06:15:22 PM »

thanks Stew for that only problem is that I dont have slots in my cross slide to mount one

I would have to drill and tap it

bogstandard · « **Reply #30 on:** March 27, 2009, 06:41:07 PM »

When you look at it, even though for many years people would always use their lathe for milling, it isn't the ideal way to go nowadays. It is OK for the very occasional job, but for large project work such as this, not really the way to go.

By the time you have bought all the bits to do things on the lathe, and made all the special fixtures for doing the job, it is in fact a lot more cost effective saving your pennies up a bit longer, and sourcing either a second hand or small mill.

There must be thousands of vertical slides sitting under benches, never to see the light of day again. By the time you have bought a decent versatile vertical slide, and purchased a vice to fit it, you would most probably be half way to the cost of a mini mill.

John

shoey51 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 27, 2009, 08:16:46 PM »

thanks John for you input much appreciated
I can get a small mill for around $1000 here made in china of course but not sure it will do the job

bogstandard · « **Reply #32 on:** March 27, 2009, 08:56:55 PM »

Shoey,

I forgot to check where you lived. It seems you can't get much second hand or reasonably priced stuff In Oz.

It also seems that other model machinists are like the fast dog syndrome. Your dogs are the fastest in the world because the trees are so far apart. It seems the machinists are the same. So no-one near to get a little milling job done.

Maybe you should ask on here if there is anyone living within striking distance from you, so you can share facilities. I know we are only small at the moment, but we are growing fast, with new international members every day.

In fact, I do small machining jobs for a chap in OZ. I have one to do for him that has only just come in. He sends me the sketch by email, I machine it up and then send it to him, he then sends the payment. It suits him, suits me as well.
He lives in the middle of nowhere, and he says it is a days drive to get to the nearest very expensive machine shop. Goodness knows where he is going to sail his steam powered model boat when he gets it finished.

John

shoey51 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 27, 2009, 09:25:10 PM »

Thanks John
maybe he has a large dam in his back yard so he can steam it on there

not sure who is around me as I live on the north side of Brisbane

cheers Graham

SPiN Racing · « **Reply #34 on:** March 31, 2009, 01:40:42 AM »

I considered a small mill for a very very long time.. and had planned to get one of those mill/drill R8 machines with the round column you see everywhere. Price in USD from 500-2000 depending on options.

In the end keeping an eye on E-bay and what was near to me.. (200 miles is drivable if the deal is good) I ran across the Acra Bridgey clone I bought. It is a 97, and was in pretty damn good shape (per the machinist friends I have) And the best.. I paid 1400 for it with a huge bridgeport vice and servo feed.

THing is.. if you have the room.. granted your locale may prevent you finding one cheap... look around and you may find something show up in a auction for cheap.

shoey51 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 10, 2009, 11:37:23 PM »

here is an update
after the disaster with my first cylinder I remade it.
I have drilled the exhaust port and drilled and taped the holes for the front and rear covers.

I broke a 10BA tap

but the holes are ok.

now to redo the other cylinder

sbwhart · « **Reply #36 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:27:49 AM »

Looking Good

Stew

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #37 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:33:59 AM »

Wot he said!

David.

shoey51 · « **Reply #38 on:** April 13, 2009, 04:49:04 AM »

another update

had a fun weekend in the workshop. has been pelting rain all weekend and Im on call so couldnt go any where.

made the pistons and made the first steam chest my first go on the mill. I am a happy chappy

Darren · « **Reply #39 on:** April 13, 2009, 04:53:32 AM »

That looks square, something similar to what I have to do soon, looking good there

sbwhart · « **Reply #40 on:** April 13, 2009, 05:33:12 AM »

Are you using a set of castings for your loco build or bar stock ?.

Nice bit of milling by the way

Stew

shoey51 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:58:34 AM »

thanks Stew
Im using bar stock to build the engines

bogstandard · « **Reply #42 on:** April 13, 2009, 07:12:20 AM »

Graham,

That is progressing really well.

Here is a tip if you want a bit of sheet steel for your loco.

Old computer cases are a good source, and the paint usually stays on it when cut. Two thicknesses normally, the interior plate is usually a little thinner. Old white goods are a good source as well, but the paint flakes off very easily, so a quickie flash over with a blowtorch and the paint usually peels off and you have nice bare metal, a good, strong bit of plate.

Bogs

shoey51 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 16, 2009, 05:37:32 PM »

thanks for the great tip mate

shoey51 · « **Reply #44 on:** June 08, 2009, 03:16:59 AM »

there has been a bit of a holdup on this project as I need to source some small sized steel hex bar for some of the pins that need to be made.
will post changes when they happen

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #45 on:** June 08, 2009, 03:30:53 AM »

Graham,

Just keep `em coming, as & when.....

David D

shoey51 · « **Reply #46 on:** June 08, 2009, 03:41:56 AM »

thanks David here is a pic to show where Im at

sbwhart · « **Reply #47 on:** June 08, 2009, 03:55:30 AM »

Graham

That looks a lovely bit of work.

A good source of hex bar for pins is old allan keys, if you can drop on some the correct size, its nice and tough great for pins.

Have fun

Stew

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #48 on:** June 08, 2009, 04:25:04 AM »

By `ek Graham!

Knowing our more, "uncomplicated" background, that looks great! You`re making a proper big lads toy.....

All power to your elbow mate.

David D

shoey51 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 08, 2009, 05:09:53 AM »

If there was a blushing icon thingy I would ad it here.

thanks for the kind praise Stew and David.

but a couple of the small brass items are cast brass lost wax method that I bought locally from the gentleman who wrote the book Im using to build this loco. I just had to do a bit of filing, drilling and tapping to fit them.

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Author Topic: Project Loco (Read 29707 times)

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