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| Broken Tap Removal??? |
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| PeterE:
Since it is a through hole I would try to clrear the tap flutes from the un-threaded side using a har steel pin or wire and a small hammer. Fiddly work yes, but if the flutes are cleared it may even be possible to use a couple of steel wires to un-screw the tap afterwards. BR /Peter |
| DMIOM:
--- Quote from: PeterE on October 20, 2013, 05:47:36 AM ---Since it is a through hole I would try to clrear the tap flutes from the un-threaded side using a har steel pin or wire and a small hammer. Fiddly work yes, but if the flutes are cleared it may even be possible to use a couple of steel wires to un-screw the tap afterwards. BR /Peter --- End quote --- That's effectively how a Walton tap remover works, but with the addition of supports (both internal and external) to minimise the chance of the pins shearing. Photos are of a 3-pin 5mm tap remover, hope you can see enough detail ..... With these, you : * Clear the debris, then inject lube * Slide the pins down into each flute * Slide the central core pin down until it touches the core of the broken tap to keep the pins at the right radius * Slide the body down until its on the workpiece to minimise the free length of the pins * Jiggle to & fro with a tap wrench ...Dave |
| unc1esteve:
The recommended tap drill size for a 6-32 thread is a #36. This is equal to 0.1065" or 2.71 mm. Small indeed for the welding, heating, bashing or wiggle, jiggle methods. Can the hole location be moved? Can it be changed to a larger size? I have tried everything my limited brain power could come up with to solve similar situations. The two solutions that I have found that will work are EDM or making a new part. The dull tap test is very effective, the dull one is the tap that just broke. Whenever I have tried the bashing method I have always had the same results. Both the 'basher' and the 'bashee' were damaged beyond use and a new part was needed. Perhaps flyingtractors has the proper cold chisel in his collection. Would that require a larger or smaller hammer? (OT, what is a flyingtractor?) The wiggle, jiggle tools belong in the same category as neck ties and high heel shoes. The hole size prevents the use of the left handed, self removing drills. A little online research will find some one time use EDM set ups that may help, such as the one that uses a door bell solenoid. Use this only when unwanted guests are expected. I have had no luck with chemicals as the errant tap is always of the wrong metal broken in the wrong metal. CH3CH2OH, in certain quantities, will help all of the mentioned processes. I live in a rural area. There is a very rude black cat that travels my yard in the dark on occasion. He is not impressed with me even when threatened with extreme termination by use of explosive projectiles. The next time I break a tap I shall seek his assistance first. |
| DMIOM:
--- Quote from: unc1esteve on October 20, 2013, 12:44:06 PM ---The recommended tap drill size for a 6-32 thread is a #36. This is equal to 0.1065" or 2.71 mm. Small indeed for the welding, heating, bashing or wiggle, jiggle methods...... --- End quote --- If by "wiggle, jiggle" you're referring to the proper Walton extractors, I must admit that I don't understand your "The wiggle, jiggle tools belong in the same category as neck ties and high heel shoes.". I've got a set as insurance when I've got a job I'm finishing against pressure - and they just work. I haven't had to use them often, but you just drop the tool in, loosen the tap by rotating a little in either direction & then just back the broken tap out; and in terms of sizes they go down to a US #4 Dave |
| Jonny:
Chances are that if the taps broke off in the hole its going to need as much if not more torque to unscrew. This rules out screwing them out. Done loads over the years from 9BA to M16 usually HSS taps. Bare in mind most of these busted taps were from a workmate in an irreplaceable part measured in 5 figures if had to replace. Need something hard, now swings and roundabouts whether use softer than the HSS tap or not. Sods law if use something hard that breaks up without marking the busted tap. Use something soft it will bend up and deform, sharpen it up to a needle. Try and shear away one flute then another. Tap may break up in multiple layers in depth. Just keep plugging away giving it some by whacking the tap with something. It may damage the thread but what other alternative have you got, touch wood never scrapped a part yet even in softer aluminiums, various steels and titaniums. Worst was a blind deep threaded hole ie 9BA 1/4" deep to the bottom, it can be done. 7BAx5/8" deep with 1.5mm meat surrounding to normal through tapped holes of a decent size. 3/16" and above its far easier and can see what your doing. Might pay to keep changing direction if through hole and if can break one flute off it may unscrew from either direction. |
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