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Pete W's Tin Shed Project.
awemawson:
Glad it's all coming back together Pete. Watch the lifting - don't want anything popping out that shouldn't :ddb:
vtsteam:
Pete, good idea about the section assembly! Working alone or shorthanded gets you to be creative with your thinking! Sure beats struggling to do something that is nearly impossible or dangerous.
I like your idea! :thumbup: :clap:
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
I've managed to grab most of the dry days to get some more work done on the roof frame for the big shed. I cut up the six 4.8 metre lengths of 100 x 50 CLS timber into the lengths determined by my drawing (supported by some VERY careful measurements of the existing roof). Much to my pleasant surprise, the lengths of the roof at both the high and low edges were equal to within a millimetre as were the widths at both ends and both the diagonal measurements! :D :D :D
After giving all the cut ends a coat of 'Duck's Back', I marked them out with my Sabatier marking knife. It then rained for several days and although I covered the pieces as well as I could, I feared the wood might swell and erase the markings. [My lovely but shy assistant often tells me 'not to make the negative waves' :hammer: :hammer: :hammer: ] (That was a film quote!)
Not having a workbench 12' 6" by 8' 6", I had to improvise a bit, not helped by the uneven terrain of our back garden! I then started the assembly. The four outer corner joints were a bit tricky and needed a bit of help from my lovely but shy assistant. Once those were secure, I could fix the remainder single-handed.
Here are a few photos:
The first two show how I clamped-up each joint, holding the pieces together in-position while I drilled pilot holes and drove the screws. (The off-cut of timber held by the two largest cramps is the one that permits single-handed assembly.)
This next one shows the situation at close of play this afternoon.
The diagonally opposite corner joints nearest to and furthest from the camera and the adjacent joints between the inner purlins and the end pieces are each secured with two wood-screws; they are the joints that will be demounted to divide the frame into two sections to facilitate lifting onto the shed roof. All the other joints in the photo are secured with two wood-screws plus a large nail. The middle row of noggins will also be demountable for lifting.
The noggin intended for the position nearest the camera proved to be a whisker too long. I didn't want to drive it into position for fear of straining the corner joint. :bang: :bang: :bang:
I have a further 2.4 metre length of timber so I shall cut an extra noggin to fit that position. I also need a tenth noggin because I've modified the plan from the drawing in my last posting. I spent some of the rainy days scheming out various ways of cutting the Kingspan insulation and the best scheme I've found requires several noggins to be repositioned and an extra one added. When I've completed the ground-level trial assembly, I'll take another photo to show the frame in its revised form.
As there will be several pieces cvompletely removed from the frame for the lifting process, I'll need to choose a system of marks so that each piece goes back into the right place! The marks will be made with a Sharpie pen - not incised with a chisel like the green oak framers' method! :D :D :D
In the background of the third photo, you can see the box section steel sheets awaiting their turn in the project!
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
Well, I've managed to make a bit more progress, here's a photo:
It's a frame, it's green, but it isn't OAK! Still, 2 out of 3 can't be too bad! :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
As you can see, I've now fitted all the noggins. I've even managed to annotate the photo - all the joints marked with a D will be demounted to separate the frame into two major sections for easier lifting onto the shed roof. Just re-making those joints in-situ will be easier on the knees than if I had tried to assemble the entire frame up there! Nevertheless, I've bought myself a fancy pair of memory foam knee pads!
But before I do any of that, I shall lay an 8' x 4' sheet of shuttering ply on top of the frame to make a level surface to support the Kingspan insulation while I cut the pieces to size to fit the various frame openings. Having chocked-up the frame to be out of winding, it's the most level surface in the place! When I've finished cutting the Kingspan, and the ply is removed, I'll fix a few temporary braces to the frame before demounting the D joints.
Another minor task that I need to do before the 'Big Lift' is to finish stapling down the edges of the polythene sheet and vapour barrier and to trim off the surplus all round.
For the 'Big Lift', I shall mobilise any available heavy gang but the basic plan is to position two 10' sections of aluminium ladder with their lower ends on the flower bed and their upper ends just over the top of the shed roof and slide the frame sections up them. That part of flower bed is significantly higher than the floor level of the shed so the ladder sections should be at a manageable slope.
Because the overall length of the frame is determined by the pattern geometry of the box-section steel sheets, the frame is actually slightly longer than the existing shed roof. I still have to decide whether I want the overhang at the door end, the other end, or a bit at each end. :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
awemawson:
Looking good Pete :thumbup:
I'd suggest overhang by the door - a bit of shelter is always useful. I have strategically placed golfing umbrellas at the doors of my various outside workplaces as I hate donning coats 'just to nip over to the workshop' - and room to raise & lower them when it's raining is very useful :wave:
Andrew
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