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Pete W's Tin Shed Project.
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
Andrew, I hope that you are well and/but not over-doing things. Thank you for your recent offer of help following my leaky tarpaulin problem.
I collected the dehumidifier from our friends on Monday morning and set it to work. By that time the water had ceased to drip from the underside of the roof. There was some free water on the vinyl floor covering but otherwise far less elsewhere than I'd expected 'après le déluge' of Sunday evening! Maybe there is some water lurking out of sight!
The dehumidifier collected about two litres on Monday. I moved some tote boxes of stuff indoors and was pleased to find no water in them. The PVC cover seems to have kept any water from getting into the lathe swarf tray.
I didn't operate the dehumidifier on Tuesday because I'd removed the polythene and tarpaulins to let the sun get to the upper surface of the roof boards. I had previously thought that the roof boards were T&G but they're just plain rough-sawn, far from uniform thickness and some waney. After a couple of hours, I swept the remaining mineral granules (shed from the roofing felt while it was being stripped-off) off the roof and gave its upper surface a good coat of wood preservative. I tried to leave that as much time to dry as possible before replacing the polythene with the tarpaulins on top and roped-down to keep all in place. It's wet today so the covering will be left in-place with the dehumidifier running again.
The next stage will be to fix the polythene vapour barrier in place properly and then to make the timber frame - the weather forecast for tomorrow is mostly dry so hopefully I'll be able to make a start with those tasks.
awemawson:
Pete, Glad it's going back together, and thanks for the thoughts. Hopefully I'm doing enough to keep my sanity but not too much!
When the vapour barrier is up at least you can rest easy that it'll be starting to dry out, but it's amazing how much moisture a building can contain in it's structure. Controlled ventilation is the key - make sure that you choose the drier days for the open doors and windows!
Dehumidifiers will only work when there is a bit of warmth about - the moisture has to be in the air to be condensed by the machine. Also the shed needs to be pretty well airtight when it's running. When we were desperately drying out our kitchen extension last winter I had mine, and a hired, dehumidifier running 24/7 but to get them going had to put a 4kW electric air heater in for a few hours to warm the air. Once it started working the heat of the driers was enough to keep the temperature up as they each consumed something like 3 kW when running.
Reading the electricity bill was enough to keep us warm !
Good luck,
Andrew
RossJarvis:
We had a dehumidifier in our bathroom. The beloved thought it a good idea to always leave the window open when I wasn't looking :smart:. Explaining how difficult it is to dehumidify Hampshire and West Sussex didn't go down too well! :hammer:
vtsteam:
Glad you got it under control Pete, and your things spared. Wishing you good weather until you've got your roof on. :thumbup:
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
I've continued to work on this project, as weather has permitted.
One task has been to convert this:
to this:
I know that's a crude drawing - I tried to produce it in Autosketch but failed utterly!! :bang: :bang: :bang:
:offtopic: Does anyone know whether you can enter the coordinates of a rectangle (diagonally opposite corners) from the keyboard in Autosketch 9?
I've got the six-off 4.8 metre lengths cut into the correct length pieces for the frame (not very photogenic so no picture of them!) but they're not assembled yet (see below).
Another task has been to trim the rough edges off the three 2.4 metre by 1.2 metre sheets of Kingspan and to tape the edges. My lovely but shy assistant helped me do the first sheet and then Ross came over today and helped me with the other two - thank you, Ross. :beer: :thumbup: :beer: :thumbup: :beer: :thumbup:
I was torn between assembling the frame in-situ on top of the old shed roof and assembling it at ground level (well, on trestles). The former would have been awkward while the latter would have required us to lift the whole thing into position, quite heavy and tricky to steer past several overhanging tree branches! Then I realised that if I make four of the joints capable of being disconnected we could lift the frame in two parts and re-assemble just those joints and the centre row of noggins in situ.
That required another shopping trip to buy some fancy wood-screws that provide good grip in end-grain. Because the joints are close to the ends of the timbers, I intend to drill pilot holes for both the wood-screws and the fancy outdoor treated nails so I also had to buy some long series twist drills. Actually, the joints only have to withstand the loads of handling - once the steel roof-sheets and flashings are on, their fixings will hold the frame together.
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