If where talking about the same thread rod, I know the hardware stuff and similar over here can be snapped with a bend or 2, and the threads strip so easy, absolutely crap.
We just tried the other night to put a bearing out of my sons bike using a bit and it jambed the nut because the threads let go.
Let us start with one agreement, crap is crap. My local
big box hardware store sells uncertified, ungraded HRS bar for $6.50/lb and CRS bar for $12.00/lb. These are materials
I buy from reputable steel yards
with mill certifications for alloy & condition for $0.80/lb and $1.45/lb respectively. The same local
big box hardware store sells uncertified socket head cap screws (supposedly alloy steel) for upwards of $0.70 each.
I purchase such screws
with manufacturer's material and testing certificates for $7/100 to as much as $15/100 in common small (i.e. <.500 inch) sizes.
I honestly cannot remember the last time I bought
retail hardware store threaded rod.
I normally purchase such stock from my local (certified) screw supplier with
manufacturer's material and testing certificates in 6 foot lengths. I use tiewire tags to ID such stock to the appropriate certificate because about 40% of the things I build end up going for military, aerospace, or medical usages. That is the world I live & work in and, if you want to play in that sandbox, that is the way things are done.
Please understand that I am
not denigrating anybody for dealing with
mystery metal. I have done my fair share of that over the years. However,
most reputable steel yards and (certified) screw suppliers will sell to the general public for a small premium (and, in recent years, a
Saturday surcharge for entry into their
drops area) -- at least here in the U.S. and Canada. Even with such
premiums, the price is a
lot less than
retail hardware stores charge for such things. Now, mind you, I have
relations with most of my suppliers that date to the 1960's, so I fall in the
old friends category in such dealings. (I also
boost good suppliers to my design & development customers at every opportunity -- and they know it!)
As my final
observation on this subject, if you want a stud to project accurately, you need at least 1.5X the major diameter in bearing to hope for an accurate projection.