That just about should sum up my question.
Backdrop:I bought old, but pretty good looking Cincinnati no.2 tool and cutter grinder
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8159.msg87804.html#msg87804I'm not very sure about the condition of the machine itself, it's still 30 km off my house. But it looks good and I have lugged home all acessories it had. Some accessories are hardly used, some are shot and some are missing.
I'm trying to sort them out and info forum members have sent me (and the mixed bag of files from Marry Popkins bag) has been very usefull.
I'm cleaning up the grit and gunk and if there is intrest I could start a thread about this, but I claim no expertice on restoration.
Cut into latest sceene:I have tried rust removal with different methods. It now appears that the light surface rust / gunk removal with household chemicals for iron metals is:
1) Pre-wash the car prewash / rim spray. Duration of soak is for a few minutes to something like 10/15 min. I have used stiff nylon bruch to remove the gunk. This seems to remove most of the grease.
There must be better detergent? Some degreasers I have tried smell pretty bad. On the other hand this method catches major part of the waste on the newspaper at the bottom of the bucket and it is easily removed with all the debris / grease. Whole lot easier to deal with semi solid waste that liquid.
2) Dunk into car wash / water mixture according to the instructions. It looks that dish detergent (Fairy lemon) is equally effective. I soak the parts pretty well and long in warm water + finally a light brushing.
3) Dunk into phosphoric acid (1-3%, I use cofeemaker descaler) or citric acid in water. Warm water seems to help more that higher concentration of the accid? Until parts looks "right". Some larger parts seem to take hours to overnight.
4) I feel that I have to neuralize the mild accid coctail. I use drain cleaner (Liquid plumber?), it seems to have 10% of caustic soda lye PH 13.5. I have diluted it somewhere in the 0.5 - 1%, and leave iron pars there for a 10 mins or so to wait for the final rinse.
5) The final wash / rinse
6) Drying
7) I remove remaining rust and residue with a quick application of Mirka Mirlon VF abrassive sponge. This really should not abrade anything, but I make sure not to rub any more than strictly necessary. I don't use power tools or sanding papers or such.
8) Then I should prepare them into interim storage.
QUESTIONS:
A) How should I rust proof the parts that are not goining to be painted?
I'm soakking them in lamp oil to get rid of the residual water, then drying and leave them like that. These parts are going to be in the gringn machine I don't want to use too much lubricant to collect any grit.
B) How should I rust proof until summer the parts that are going to be paintted? Or I just dry them well and stuff them under couch and hope that my wife won't spot them?
This procedure soulds longwinded, but I have groups of square paintters buckets and I have one liquid in each. I get awfull amount of grit out on some parts, but I usually save them last and use liquids first for cleanest parts.
Comment?
I just got small ultrasonic cleaner and bought can type soda blaster, that should clean screws, nuts and small complicated parts too.
Any interest on this topic? I don't mind thread hijack.
Pekka