Go slow, lube well, and they will serve you well. As far as an adaptors goes I made my own similar I believe to what Mr. Rudd did. As slitting saw blades are so thin many steps on the end of a shank may be turned. Then a cup is turned to go over all the steps with a flat hex head screw to secure. Depth of cup relates to depth of the number of steps on the shank. The only problem with this design is you can not cut close to the end as the depth of cup is always present. If you make close, flush cuts you must go with the style using a thin washer to secure the blade. I used 1.250" material and turned the shank to .750" so cup is also 1.250" dia. The bottom size being dictated by the size of hole in the blade. A .125" and/or .1875" slot for a key is easily added. I cut both, 180 deg from each other so I could accomodate either.
One last note. When you turn the shoulder for the blade make sure there is no radius in the corners. I prefer a slight groove. Reason-slitting saws are ground flat therefore the edges of the hole have no relief. If you clamp an unrelieved shank to a unrelieved blade the stress at the corner will crack the blade. Whew! A lot of words to try to get a simple point across!
Good luck, good machining, and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
