I want to thank all who have commented and offered advise on the techniques of silver soldering/brazing. A lot of good info to think about and apply.
A little background on me. I have soldered for electronics for many years. I actually taught high reliability soldering for the USAF for many years. I have also done some plumbing soldering over the years using propane and mapp gas, even an old kerosene blowlamp. I have only silver soldered/brazed once, and can't find that part now! So, I am familiar with the process and what solder flow and wicking look like.
I have my Dad's Proto torch set, regulator and acetylene tank that I intend to use for silver soldering/brazing. It needs a new hose, as the original is looking dry rotted and I don't trust it. I'm looking for firebrick to make a hearth, and have found a local supplier for the solder and flux, and a replacement hose.
I have uploaded a photo of the parts I need to silver solder/braze.

The part, shown assembled at the top, and the 3 components at the bottom, is a connecting rod for a model steam engine. The clevis on the right end does not get soldered. The flat part on the left gets soldered to the end of the rod in the position shown at the top. The rod part is run of the mill 3/16” CRS rod, not modified other than faced in the lathe and threaded for the clevis. The flat piece is 1/16” crs plate, drilled and tapped 2-56 on the outaide holes and drilled 3/16” in the center.
As made, the flat piece is a light press fit on the rod. I used a ball pien to tap the rod into the flat piece on the anvil part of my bench vise to get a flush fit. I can twist and pull the flat piece off the rod with my fingers. I used a 3/16” drill to make the mating hole. If I use a #12 drill the flat part is loose on the rod.
Hope this clears up your questions and gives you a mental picture of what I'm trying to do.
Chuck
edit: Fixed link. Don